Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: specialkayme on October 06, 2010, 08:13:15 pm
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I decided I needed a Fall '10 project. What better than to build an upgraded version of an Observation Hive? Basically, it's going to look somewhat like this (Version 4.0):
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/Observation%20Hive/IMG_20101001_181807.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/Observation%20Hive/IMG_20101001_181951.jpg)
I will call it (shockingly) Version 5.0. The differences between Version 4.0 and Version 5.0 will be:
1. It will be done in Red Oak.
2. It will have the feeder closer to the glass panel, rather than on the side.
3. It will have a smaller lazy susan base.
4. It will (hopefully) be able to detach from the lazy susan base (still working on this one).
5. It will have safety glass in the panels (Version 4.0 has Plexiglass).
6. It will have a screened bottom board, with a drawer to put a sticky pad for mite counts.
7. It will (hopefully) solve some of the slide close problems that Version 4.0 had.
*The hopefully sections I have not worked out the mechanics of it yet, but have decided to start on the upper section first.
Besides that, the overall look will be the same. Three deep frames or four medium frames, single frame depth.
I am hoping to do posts periodically, as I build it. This way those who wish to build their own can observe. Others can comment as to what I am doing incorrectly (or what they think I should do instead). Ideally, with me posting, this keeps me motivated to finish (and not let it sit for 5 months on end with no changes). I probably will only spend about two or so hours a week on it, so be patient.
Any comments, questions, or concerns are more than welcome. I hope you enjoy!
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Day 1
First to be built, the sides that the frames rest on.
I start with a 1"x2" Red Oak board, cut two sections to 32" long. Using the table saw, I ripped the two boards so they were 1 3/8" thick, instead of the 1 1/2". Since they are 1 3/8" thick, it's the exact thickness of the frames, securing them in place. The bee space is corrected by the panels. (Even though the picture has the dato blade on, I used the regular blade)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180212.jpg)
Next I put the dato blade onto the table saw and set it up to be 9/16" thick, cutting 7/16" deep. The cuts were spaced so that the first one left a 1" gap at the top, then there was a 6 7/8" between the first and second, 2 3/16" between the second and third, 3 1/16" between the third and fourth, and 5 7/8" between the fourth and fifth cuts. This should leave 10" of space on the bottom (Enough for the frame, plus 1" of extra space). These cuts allow me to have either 3 deep frames, or 4 medium frames. The cuts for the deeps were spaced so there was 3/4" between the frames. The medium cuts ended up being where they could fit.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180242.jpg)
And a better picture of the dato cuts.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180232.jpg)
I ended up cutting both sides. However, only on one of the sides did I cut two extra grooves for the hinges. One of the panels will be screwed into the Observation Hive. The other panel will be on hinges. To make sure that I don't screw up the bee space, or to make sure that the hinge isn't exposed to the outside of the hive (or the bees inside so they end up gunking it up) I cut two grooves on the sides of one of the bars. Both cuts were two inches wide, and 3/16" deep. It took four passes with the dato blade.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180309.jpg)
Both hinges were positioned where the thickest part of the top and bottom frames were expected to be, or roughly between 7 and 9 inches from the bottom, and between 4 and 6 inches from the top. This way, when I close the hive, the panels are less likely to bow outward if any of the frames are thicker than 1 3/8" due to propolis. I contemplated adding a third hinge, but since I had no problems with two hinges on Version 4.0 I decided to keep it simple. Here is a better picture of the grooves for the hinges.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180335.jpg)
My Golden Retriever Toby helped me make some of the cuts, and was nice enough to lay in the picture for comparison :)
Here is another, closer picture of the hinge groove.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101006_180328.jpg)
That's all the work done for today. I still need to sand the frame rest pieces, but other than that they are all cut. Stay tuned to watch how it all pans out!
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Hey, we got the same table saw. Cool.
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This is great stuff! thanks for the tutorial.
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Day Two
Next up: The window frames.
*Disclaimer: My woodworking terminology is not the best. I'm going with terms that I think is right. Feel free to correct me, but don't hold it against me.
In the past I have made my window frames from but ends. This time, I am trying something different and going with mitered ends.
First, I start off with my 1"x2" Red Oak boards. I cut them into 4 boards that are 20" long, and 4 boards that are 32" long.
Next, I set up the table saw to do a 45 degree cut on the ends of the boards. (I realize a miter saw would be perfect for this. Alas, I don't have one, and the wife isn't keen to new toys at the moment)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_173927.jpg)
By simply adjusting the sled to push at 45 degrees, and setting up the fence to make sure I cut it exactly where I want to, I can just slide it right into the blade.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_174147.jpg)
And repeat on the other end.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_174734.jpg)
Once finished, you should have 4 boards that are 20" on the long side, and 17" on the short side, and 4 boards that are 32" on the long side, and 29" on the short side. All ends are cut on a 45 degree angle.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_182500.jpg)
If you pay attention, I changed the way I cut them after the first two. The sled wasn't dialed into exactly 45 degrees, even though it said it was. I figured the easier way was to angle the blade at 45 degrees. Once angled, I took a scrap piece of wood and ran it through there, and attached it to the sled. I lined all the progressing boards to be cut to the scrap wood. Maybe not the easiest way, but it gets the job done.
When you push them all together, they look like this (lying next to the 32" frame rest for comparison).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_182618.jpg)
And separated slightly to show where the cuts were made (if it wasn't obvious from the above picture).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_182631.jpg)
Now with the window frame and frame rests cut to this side, it accomplishes something that not everyone else does. Some observation hives that I have seen place the glass (or plexi) on the inside of the window frame attached with screws. I've seen others put into grooves on the outside, or held in place with mirror clips. This ends up accomplishing the 1 3/4" bee space directly between the two pieces of glass, with nothing holding the frame in the middle. The frame ends up moving around, and you might get more space on one side of the frame, squishing the bees on the other side. a real problem if the queen is on one of the frames that's being squished as you transport it somewhere. I have seen some make 'grooves' on the frame rest portions to hold the frames in place. While this helps the top stay in the middle of the OH, the bottoms are left to swing left and right.
To remedy this problem, I make the frame rest the exact width of the frame end bars (as you remember from day one). The window pieces hold the end bars in place, not the glass itself. I'm able to accomplish the additional room needed by cutting a groove in the window pieces, essentially putting the glass in the middle of the window frame, and not on the inside or outside edge.
Here are some pictures of how the window frame will look from the inside, once closed.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_183053.jpg)
Here is another picture showing that the frame end bar gets held in place by the window frames, ensuring that the combs don't flop around if transported, squishing some bees and allowing excess room for comb building on the other side.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101008_183140.jpg)
If not entirely clear right now, I'll show how the bee space is maintained when I cut the groove for the glass, accomplished another day.
Thanks for stoping by, and enjoy!
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This looks Great so Far you may cause me to make one of these
I'll wait and watch your Progress
Tom
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This looks Great so Far you may cause me to make one of these
I'll wait and watch your Progress
Tom
While you might want to wait to see the finished project, it will look alot like the first picture.
Still, better to let me finish and make sure there arn't any "kinks" in the system, before you start.
The real interesting part comes when I add the part that allows the hive to disassemble from the lazy susan. That will be fun!
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Very nice. Are you running that dado blade with no insert cover? I am going to make my own behives. I've built up some woodworking tools (table saw, bandsaw, miter saw, 2 routers and 1 router table and a Leigh D1600 Dovetail Jig) and would like to get started this weekend. I do need to get me a jointer and planer combo. I will be watching your build for sure. Good job.
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Are you running that dado blade with no insert cover?
Sometimes. It depends on how thick I set the dato blade. The cover I have isn't set for dato, so if it's set too thick the blade gets in the way (so off comes the cover). I worked on it today, with the dato blade and kept the cover on it, but only because the dato was set at 1/4".
I'll post an update probably tomorrow or Friday. Too exhausted right now.
But thanks for stoping by. I love comments 8-)
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As promised, the update on what I've done in the past week or so.
Day 3
I began working on completing the doors that attach to the frame rests. While others attach their glass directly to the side of the observation hive, I prefer having mine surrounded by wood, and put them directly into the door that hinges open. In order to do that, I first take the dato blade and set it up to cut at 1/4" thick. The groove that is cut on the door will be 1/4" thick.
In order to maintain the bee space, I need 1 3/4" of space between the glass. The frame rest is 1 3/8" thick, that means i need to make up 3/8" of space. Divided equally between the two doors, that means each 1/4" groove needs to be 3/16" away from the side. I set up the table saw to cut it at this distance, and run all 8 pieces through.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_165957.jpg)
Having run the boards through, when looking at the grooves they look something like this.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180140.jpg)
I'm not too sure how clear it is from the picture, but the 1/4" groove in the wood should be closer to one side than it is the other. The side that it's closer to needs to go toward the inside of the hive, to maintain the bee space.
From there, I grabbed the router.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180150.jpg)
And did a little cosmetic work.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180201.jpg)
Having made them look a little nicer, I grabbed the 4 shorter bars (which will make the tops and bottoms of the doors) and drilled two small holes in the ends of each for the screws to go. Make sure to drill them between the groove and the end, otherwise when you try to screw it together you end up drilling into the glass.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180209.jpg)
Having drilled the holes, align up a long bar with a short bar, hold it in place at a 90 degree angle, and drill the holes through the end bars into the side bars.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180222.jpg)
Add screws
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180252.jpg)
and you are good to go. Notice the two screws to ensure that a side doesn't twist while the glass is inside the door. Additionally, all screw heads are on the tops and bottoms, and not on the sides. This will make sure that the screws aren't visible when the entire thing is completed.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180420.jpg)
Continue through till all tops or bottoms are met up with a side.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_180842.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_181830.jpg)
I find it easier to attach the glass to two 90 degree slots of wood, rather than attaching three to each other then sliding in the glass. I guess to each their own.
I wanted to make sure that each piece of glass was put in square, so I grabbed some clamps to finish the job.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_183759.jpg)
Repeat till the entire glass is enclosed. I chose to use 1/4" laminated glass. It was alot heaver than I originally anticipated.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_183416.jpg)
a better view so you can see how thick the glass is.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_183426.jpg)
And continue for the second door.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101013_184241.jpg)
Well that's all for now. Next time I'll show you how I attached the doors to the frame rests. From there, it's the bottom board (complicated) and the top bar. Then the lazy susan.
Thanks for stopping by, I appreciate the comments!
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nice. will be waiting for updates.
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great job!!!
do you glue the frame as well as screwing it together?
Jim
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do you glue the frame as well as screwing it together?
Good question Jim, my wife asked as I was putting it together :-*
No, I do not.
The bees will propolis up any cracks that exist, whether you see them or not, including any gaps between the wood and the glass. If, for whatever reason, the glass should break, it's improtant to be able to remove it as easily as possible. This would mean just screwing it apart, not cutting it due to glue.
I have seen others that will glue two or three sides together, and leave the last side unglued. If you do this, you require that you have to slide the glass out of the frame in order to remove it. When it's gummed up with propolis, this doesn't make for an easy task, especially when you are dealing with shards of glass that could potentially cut you.
Without using glue, I can just unscrew all the parts of the frame and pull the entire frame apart. Doing that lets all the broken glass pieces fall out (or with a quick yank or a few taps). Then I can reconstruct it around the new piece of glass.
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This is just my opinion but I would glue the sides and bottom rail. You have already said the laminate is heavier than you thought, suggesting to me that strength is needed. Also, you are using a laminate, its more than likely not going to break. I was reading on Bush's site where he mentions that his grandsons have struck his numerous times with nary a crack.
I am with you though on trying to make it easy to repair.
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I see where you are coming from, but I don't view it as much of a concern. The laminated glass isn't applying force in all directions. It's only applying it downward, i.e. on the bottom rail. 99% of the time, the bottom board will be below the bottom rail, so it's not a big deal. 1% of the time I have the door open, and it's not supported by the bottom board. 4 screws are sufficient (in my opinion) to hold the glass for 1% of the time.
But hey, if you want to glue it, by all means be my guest. Just from personal experience, having to change the glass out is difficult enough, let alone having to "slide it, glide it, push pull and ride it" all the way out. Then when that doesn't work, having to cut the frame in order to get it out, and build an all new one.
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Day 4
This update should be rather quick. All I did here was attach the Glass Frames to the Frame rests.
I didn't take very many pictures, because I didn't feel that it was really necessary. But, here are the pictures that I did take.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101014_190848.jpg)
Basically, I started off attaching the hinge to the frame rest, in the grooves that I previously made. From there, I lined up the frame rests on the inside of the one glass frame. Having lined them up, I marked the frame rest to know where to attach the hinge that had already been attached to the frame rest.
Completing that, I had one frame rest attached to one glass frame. I then placed the other frame rest where I felt it should be, and placed the other glass frame where I felt it should be (baslically lining up the frame rests to the outside edge of the glass frames). I clamped them all together, and screwed four screws into the glass frame that WAS NOT attached to the hinge, drilling past the glass frame and into the frame rest. Having finished all four screws (two on each frame rest) I now had one glass frame that was attached to both frame rests, and one glass frame that was attached to one frame rest via a hinge.
I then took a locking window sashe.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101014_190839.jpg)
and attached it to the part of the other frame that hinges open, enabling me to securely hold down the door that opens.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101014_190854.jpg)
And how with both of them attached.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101020_130627.jpg)
And a full view
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101020_130636.jpg)
And now showing how it opens. I placed a deep (in the wrong section) just to show how it fits.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101020_130720.jpg)
That's it for today. Thanks for stoping in, and enjoy!
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Day 5
Alright, since the last one was fairly easy and straightforward, it seems only fair that this one be somewhat more complicated.
I started working on the bottom board, which comes in three parts. This is part number one, which consists of the main bottom board and the screened section.
I first started off with a 1"x6" board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_101356.jpg)
And I cut it to 29" long.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_102138.jpg)
The reason why it is 29" long, and not a nice even number like 24" or 30" is because I want to make sure that I include everything that I want in it, while reducing the size as much as possible. This allows for it to fit in smaller spaces inside my house, and makes for easier transport when needed.
I marked all over this thing to show where everything goes.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_101402.jpg)
The exact spots were everything goes doesn't matter too much right now, but if you were wondering, I have two support poles, the center of each will be placed 1 & 3/8" in from the edges. From there, the frame rests will be placed (the center of it) 4 & 7/8" in from either side. The center of the board will be 14 & 1/2" (obviously).
Finding the center, I drill a hole with a 1.5" hole saw.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_102148.jpg)
The reason I've chosen a 1.5" hole, is one of these fits nicely in there.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OB_bottom4.jpg)
a simple 1.5" x 6" plastic sink flange (photo courtesy of Robo and http://www.myoldtools.com/OBhive/OB_Chapter1.htm (http://www.myoldtools.com/OBhive/OB_Chapter1.htm)). I incorporated one of these into an OH I had a few years ago, and I loved it. I have not yet decided if I will use it, but I would like the option.
Here is what it looks like with it sticking out, showing how nice it fits. :mrgreen:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_102607.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_102616.jpg)
In the past I have routed a groove to make sure the sink flange sits flat. If I decide to use it again, I will route a groove, but I have not yet done so at this time.
Moving on, I now started to work on the screened bottom portion. Grabbing my router and the 3/4" straight bit.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_102857.jpg)
The cuts start 5 & 1/4" in from either side, are 7 & 7/8" long and 1.5" wide. If placed correctly, the cuts should be 0.5" away from the hole that you previously cut in the center.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_110449.jpg)
I skipped the interum cuts, but needless to say it took SEVERAL passes with the router to cut all the way through it. It also took a steady hand, as I decided not to use any guides and wanted to do it free hand. I don't know why, I was just in the mood to be creative :roll:
From here, we need to make the cuts for the feeder, that will be attached to the side near one of the frame rests. I flipped the board over (so as to make sure not to cut through the pencil marks I made previously) and cut a 1" wide groove, 5/8" deep using the router again. Make sure that the one end of the 1" wide groove matches up with where the frame rest will begin, and where the screened cut you just made ended.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_111222.jpg)
This will create the channel for the bees to pass in and out to the feeder.
Next, I used the router still to cut a 0.25" deep cut that is 4" x 3". I chose not to center this cut around the groove, because if I did the feeder would mostly block the hive. Instead, I want it to mostly block the space next to the frame rest. As such, I made sure that I only cut 1" of space toward the center of the board, and 2" toward the outside of the board (2" outside, + 1" center, +1" of space already cut = 4").
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_111552.jpg)
Here is a little better picture to show the difference in depths of the cuts.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_111557.jpg)
As you will notice, the one edge is rounded (from using the router). I need it square, so I grabbed a chisel and a hammer.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_112335.jpg)
And squared it off. From here, I now have the space for the feeder, but I need to actually put in the feeder. So I grabbed a 1/4" x 5" oak board, and cut off a 4" x 5 & 1/8" section.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_112741.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_113035.jpg)
And as you will see, it fits rather nicely into the cut that we just made.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_124514.jpg)
From there I constructed a basic feeder. I actually fumbled this part up, as you can see. The construction of it was fairly simple, but I just tried to use the feeder again, and chips went flying. It was constructed out of 1/4" oak again.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_151759.jpg)
I know the "industry standard" is to use mason jars as feeders. That's great for others, but I use applesause jars. They are easy to come by, glass, and replaceable at will. To each heir own I guess. An applesause jar lid is 2 5/8" wide, so that's what I used. If you have a mason jar, you might want to adjust it accordingly.
Here is a view looking inside the feeder, notice that the gap for the opening is more on one side than it is on the other. That's because of the opening in the wood is on one side more than on the other.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_151810.jpg)
To prevent the little ladies from getting out when the feeder isn't there, we need some #8 hardware cloth. I first started by stapling it to right above the entrance of the feeder, on the bottom board side.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_151832.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_151937.jpg)
Leaving the mesh there for now, I grabbed some good glue.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_152054.jpg)
and glued the feeder to the bottom board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_152408.jpg)
Once held in place, I was able to fold the mesh down over the feeder, cut it to fit, and staple it to the feeder.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_153131.jpg)
I eventually wasn't satisfied with just the staples, and felt the feeder needed a little more support. I eventually added some guerilla glue (admitedly too much of it) as well as a collar for the feeder. I didn't take pictures as I was doing it, but you can see it in the end shots.
Last thing that we need to do is attach the screen to the cuts you made in the bottom board. I'll be attaching wood to the underside of this bottom board, so I need to make sure that the wood attached will sit flat even with the screen there. So, I went BACK to the router and cut a groove around the screened cut we made before. It was only about a 1/16" deep, just about the thickness of #8 hardware cloth.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_112226.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_152135.jpg)
And stapled the screen in place.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101015_153322.jpg)
Giving us the end product, a bottom board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101022_105726.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/OH%20Oak%20in%20build/IMG_20101022_105714.jpg)
If it wasn't clear as I was building it, the entrance will be the 1.5" hole in the center, and the cuts we made to the left and right of it are the screened bottom boards.
Next up I'll make the drawers for the screens, followed by the shut off gate, the lazy susan base, and finally the top board.
Thanks for stoping by. I know I don't always do things the easiest way, and my methods are usually a little unorthodox, but I have fun and get the job done. Thanks for all the comments and questions, I really appreciate them.
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What a tremendous tutorial! Thanks!
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Day 6
I figured it was about time for me to post an update. Thanks to everyone for being patient.
When I left off last time, we had built the screened bottom board, and that's it. In a conventional outdoor hive, you can create a screened bottom board and let all the debris fall to the ground. That isn't really an option with an indoor observation hive. Sure you COULD have it fall to the base of it, but then you are pulling out the dustbuster every few days, and that gets to be a pain. Plus, when friends come over, there is crap all over the bottom of the hive. Including, the occasional mite or wax moth. Really embarrassing :-\ even if they don't know what it is.
So for my Observation Hive, I want some way that I can trap that debris and clean it out without having to get the dust buster, and without it being 'seen'. So I decided to go with drawers. Since we have two screened portions, we need two drawers that slide in and out. The center will have the entrance going directly through it, so for the time being it has to be solid. So here is what it's basic construction (the housing for the drawers) looks like:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124145.jpg)
It comprises of two 1x2 peicnes of oak, cut to 24" long. If you noticed the fact that the sides look different on the ends, it's because I originally cut it to be 18" (I think) long, then realized my mess up and had to glue extensions on to it. Oops.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124203.jpg)
Then in the center I have a 2.25" piece of 1" oak. This will allow the center entrance hole to pass through it.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124238.jpg)
It is designed to be 5.5" wide (for now), or the exact width of the 1x6" board that makes up the bottom board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124219.jpg)
Before gluing it all together, I cut a 1/4" groove in the slots, so that the drawers could fit in there.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124302.jpg)
I can't really tell you what the "dimensions" of the dato slots were. i really just went with what felt comfortable at the time.
From there, I created the actual drawers, using scrap wood that was available. 1/4" oak makes up the bottom, while scrap 1/4" oak makes the sides and back. Scrap 1x2" oak makes up the thicker front portion, which has the same groove in it that the rails have. The sides and back were attached with woodglue, while the thicker front portion was attached with Guerilla Glue. The center was polyeruothained (sp?).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124329.jpg)
Here are a few more photos with better pictures of the dimensions of the drawers, if anyone is interested in replicating them :D
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124353.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124409.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124424.jpg)
I'm sorry I don't have pictures of me cutting the pieces, gluing them, or actual dimensions of the cuts used. I was in a zone and just went with it.
Here are a few pictures of the drawers sliding in and out of the rails, after a little bit of sanding.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124512.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124520.jpg)
Attached to the rails that house the drawers will be the first of two "cut off" valves, allowing me to close the entrance of the hive and transport the hive, if needed. The first one is attached to the bottom board, while the second one will be attached to the base. The "cut off" valve will slide, so we needed to create the slide as well as the grooves that it is housed in.
I used 1/4" oak boards to create two 24" long, 1.75" wide boards.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124546.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124619.jpg)
I used the router to cut grooves in the sides that were 1/8" deep, and .75 inches wide (I believe).
Here is a better view to see how they were cut.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124553.jpg)
These sides will be glued to the rails, with the smooth side (the un routed side) facing away from the rails. In between the two of them houses the larger slide mechanism. It is 24" long, and 3.75" wide.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124648.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124717.jpg)
On either edge of it, I used the router to create the same 1/8" deep cut, .75 inches wide.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124701.jpg)
Once you glue the two smaller pieces of the slide to the rails, it will look like this.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124756.jpg)
And like this from the side (to help conceptualize how you glued the two smaller boards, remembering to glue them with the routed side facing the rails)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124803.jpg)
This allows the thicker slide piece to slide directly under the rails, as such.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124824.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124838.jpg)
And finally, with it closed.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_124848.jpg)
A hole will be drilled directly through the block in the center of the two rails, as well as the center of the "shut off" slide. Then when you push the slide to one side, it closes the entrance and you can remove the hive.
Eventually, the rails will be glued to the underside of the bottom board. But that is a task for another day.
Again, I'm sorry I havn't taken too many photos of me actually building it, just interim shots of the pieces. Sometimes I get in a groove and just have to roll with it. But I'll try to do a better job.
Thanks again for stoping by.
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All I can say is WOW!!!!! Great tutorial so far! I wish I had that much woodworking talent...
...DOUG
KD4MOJ
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I'm glad you like it Doug!
Sometimes I wonder if I'm typing all this stuff out for myself, or if anyone is actually benefitting from this. If nothing else, at least it is giving me "plans" to rebuild it, if I should ever need to (although it's all basically in my head anyway).
I wouldn't say that I have "that much woodworking talent" though, it's all basically trial and error. I taught myself, and trust me, you can too. I don't have the expensive tools ($70 router, $115 table saw, $29 drill, and a few hand tools). If I can do it, you can too.
thanks for stopping by, I love getting comments/questions.
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Well it certainly looks like you do carpentry for a living. I like seeing what one does. I wanted to make a top bar hive and watched Daves Videos. I've started mine and it's fairly straight forward, no dado blades involved! It's really kinda funny since my entire family are general contractors (building houses since the early 50's) but I went the computer route. OH well.... threads such as yours and Daves get my juices flowing and me breakin' out the skill saw!
I think that after my top bar project, I might try and follow your steps here and see if I can build it. Anyway, keep up the good work!
...DOUG
KD4MOJ
P.S. Check out Daves videos in the Top Bar forum if you haven't already.
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This is great. I've collected several plans for an observation hive, but I like your model better. I also prefer the visual step-by-step approach; it's much easier to follow the process.
A(nother) question: Will the dead bees be dropped into those debris drawers, or will housekeeping carry them all the way outdoors through the hose?
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Well it certainly looks like you do carpentry for a living.
Thanks Doug. Very kind of you :D
It's really kinda funny since my entire family are general contractors (building houses since the early 50's) but I went the computer route.
I know what that's like. My father is an electrician, my grandfather a carpenter, I went to law school. But whatever, no reason why you can't enroll in a "self study" program.
I think that after my top bar project, I might try and follow your steps here and see if I can build it. Anyway, keep up the good work!
I'm glad I could motivate someone! If when you are building, you run into some questions (largely, probably due to the fact that I took inadequate interim photos in the process) just let me know, I'd be happy to help. Or, if you want to change the design into something else, just ask. I might have tried it already, and if not I enjoy bouncing ideas around.
P.S. Check out Daves videos in the Top Bar forum if you haven't already.
I haven't checked out Daves videos just yet. Not really big into TBHs myself, but I might in the future. It would be worth while to watch, if for no other reason than the entertainment value. Thanks for the heads up.
Will the dead bees be dropped into those debris drawers, or will housekeeping carry them all the way outdoors through the hose?
I'm glad you enjoy it Phill.
I used #8 hardware cloth on the bottom screens. Because of that, it's too small for the dead bees to pass through. The undertaking bees will take care of them though. My concern with the screened bottom board is more for mites, moths, debris, and SHB larvae.
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Didn't like anything about yours :roll:
Your ways of attaching parts and cutting Channels (awful)
Way to much detail left out :?
I read none of what you wrote :-X
Tommyt
I bought most the wood for mine(yours) yesterday :-D
Thanks I truly enjoyed watching
I think a lot of folks have read yours,gotten Ideas and already
started their own just didn't make a post
From the start I have watched yours grow :)
I also liked Daves
He pretty much ABC'd it for dummy's
The KTBH was my first bee build and I hadn't
seen Dave's until I was done, :roll:
Had I ,it would have gone faster.
On a good day I think I could do it, in an hour
But I'm a slam bam build not a real Fine wood worker
Nail and screw guns is they way to Fly
When I build yours it may end up a closet Ob Hive :-D
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*edit: Misunderstood post*
I'm super excited you got the wood to make your own. What type of wood did you get Tommy? Feel free to make "modifications." Taking things out, or adding other things might work better for you. But discussing them might help you avoid pitfalls in the future, or help others avoid similar mistakes.
If others are building, speak up! I love OH's and think every beek (well, maybe not every beek) needs one in their home.
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Didn't like anything about yours
Your ways of attaching parts and cutting Channels (awful)
Way to much detail left out
I read none of what you wrote
This was a Joke that is why I wrote the things below it
I will let you know when I start and Hopefully
it will come out half as nice as yours
Tommyt
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Sorry Tommy, sometimes I'm not able to pick up on sarcasm in writing. My bad.
Thanks for the kind words, and good luck on your build!
I'm always here if you have any questions. :)
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Day 7
Alright, now we get started on some of the more complicated aspects that I havn't seen incorporated into any other Observation Hive. But hey, there has to be a first right? 8-)
From here, we want to finish working on the base of the project, namely the lazy susan part as well as the part that attaches to the bottom board (the rails that were "completed" on day 6).
In the past I've used circles for the lazy susan tops and bottoms, but this time I wanted to go with something a little different, so I decided to go with hexagons. I think it will add a bit of mystery and intrigue to the project. :mrgreen:
So, to start off, I know that I want my top hexagon to have a diameter equal to the rails that I previously constructed. Mainly because I don't want the rails to hang out, or to sink into the top hexagon. This means the top hexagon needs a diameter of 24 inches.
I want the bottom hexagon to be smaller than the top, so as not to attract attention. Also, if the top hexagon is as big as the top, you are just using wasted materials, and we all want to save on materials (as well as cost). So I decided the bottom hexagon is going to be 18 inches in diameter.
Using a little bit of math, I know that I can make an 18 inch diameter hexagon with four 1x6 boards. So I take those four boards, and I cut them so that two are 18 inches long, and two are 14.5 inches long (this is where the math came in, but just trust me for now).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_170014.jpg)
This makes the height 18 inches, but the width is over 18 inches. Something we will correct later.
The top hexagon needs a diameter of 24 inches. Unlike the bottom hexagon, the top one will have a "gap" in the center, where the observation hive will slide in and out. Knowing that the width of the observation hive is 5.5 inches (the width of a 1x6 board), I know that four more boards will be needed to make up the 24 inch hexagon. Two of which need to be 24 inches long, and the other two need to be 23 inches long.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_170125.jpg)
Having cut the boards for the top and bottom hexagon, I went ahead and worked on the bottom hexagon. I glued all four boards together, then set the table saw to cut on a 45 degree angle. Drawing the hexagon on the board, I knew exactly where to cut. Having made the cuts to reduce the hexagon to a 18 inch diameter on all sides, I routed the edges of the top and bottom, to make a board that looks like this:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101024_092426-1.jpg)
and then I drilled a 1.5" hole in the center of it.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101024_092913-1.jpg)
I then turned my attention back to the top hexagon. I want the observation hive to slide out. This gets a little tricky if you try to use slots and grooves. I decided to use angles on this one. I set the table saw to cut on a 35 degree and lined up the bottom corner to the blade, cutting at a 35 degree angle through the rails:
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_180850.jpg)
And completing the other side
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_181229.jpg)
I then made sure that I cut the 24" long boards that make up the top hexagon at the same angle.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_181919.jpg)
And as you can see they fit together quite nicely.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_181935.jpg)
The bottom board will sit directly on top of the rails. Since the rails are made from one 1x6" board, and one 1/4x6" board, this makes the overall thickness more than the 1x6" board that makes up the hexagon. This gives a little wiggle room, that I wanted to avoid. So I cut a 1/4" board, about 1" wide at a 35 degree angle, and attached it to the top of the 24" hexagon board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101022_181956.jpg)
Now that the rails are completely cut, I can line it up with the bottom board, and drill the 1.5' hole directly through the center block.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101024_091725.jpg)
and then continue it through the slide.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101024_092207.jpg)
The next set of pictures, for some reason, got deleted from my phone. I don't know what happened to it, but it is what it is. I can explain everything I did in the lost set of photos, and you'll see their end result later on, but the step by step photos have been lost forever. Sorry about that.
Anyway, having drilled the hole through the rails, and through the shut off, I went ahead and glued the rails to the bottom board that we previously made, making sure to line up the holes correctly. The slide should be on the bottom, and the wider part of it should be on the bottom as well.
From there, I glued the 24" top hexagonal board to each of the 23" top hexagonal boards that we created earlier. I cut a 24" hexagon out of them, routed the edges, and made it look all nice. :mrgreen:
For the observation hive, it's important to have two shut off valves. One for the hive, and one for the base. When you slide the hive part out, you don't want to leave the entrance open for returning foragers to fly directly into your house. (made that mistake a few times) So the second part of the shut off valve will be located on the inside of the bottom hexagon. (some of these photos got lost too, sorry)
To start off, I created a channel that is 1/4" deep, and 1.75" wide going from the edge of the hexagon and up to 1/4" away from the center 1.5" hole
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101024_100831-1.jpg)
And used the chisel to square the edges. The rest of the slide is created using 1/4" oak, and creating three pieces. Two fit directly in the channel just cut with the router. The other has a 1.5" hole drilled through it. It looks something like this (pictures taken much later, so bear with me).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_101025.jpg)
By pushing on one side of the slide, you are able to shut off the entrance hole.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_101037.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_101048.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_101055.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_101100.jpg)
Having completed the construction of the second shut off valve, I then got out the polyurethane and gave everything a good couple of coats. :mrgreen:
After that, I attached the top two sections of the hexagon to the lazy susan mechanics, available at Lowes.
By flipping over all the pieces, it's important that you place the center of the 1.5" hole in the center of the lazy susan. If you don't, it spins out of control, literally.
Starting with the bottom board, flip it over and place the lazy susan in the center. Then slide one of the top hexagonal pieces up to the bottom board, and attach the lazy susan ONLY TO THE HEXAGONAL BOARD, make sure you don't attach the lazy susan to the bottom board.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_150849.jpg)
And repeat the process for the other side.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_152041.jpg)
Then you can go ahead and flip it over.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_152115.jpg)
Then you can see how the bottom board will be able to slide away from the lazy susan, as well as the base of the observation hive.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_152142.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_152206.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101031_152215.jpg)
Then, with the bottom slide mechanism in place, you line up the bottom hexagon, and attach it to the lazy susan, giving you the end result of the base.
Alright, my hands are kinda tired, so I'm ending this day right here. Hopefully the lost pictures won't be too detrimental to anyone's attempt to recreate this. If you are having difficulties, just let me know.
Just so you know, I've just about completed the construction of the observation hive (although I havn't started it's stand), I'm just very behind on the updates. Please bear with me.
Thanks again for stoping in.
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Looking Better with every Post
Thanks again for sharing
Tom
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Day 8.
I apologize for this taking so long. I've been swamped with work lately and haven't had an opportunity to update.
But, I'm here now, so let's go.
Today I will be discussing the top of the observation hive. Along with it, I'll be discussing ventilation.
Ventilation is very important for an observation hive. Both too much of it and not enough can doom a hive very quickly. Since the observation hive has less room to regulate their own temps, they need adequate ventilation. I've seen some hives that put the ventilation in the sides. To me, this weakens the overall structural integrity of the hive (not something you want inside your house). To me, I put it in the top. This allows heat to escape durring the summer easier. But, to each their own.
I first started off with a 1x6 board of equal length to the bottom board. From there, I routed the edges smooth, sanded it nicely, and gave it a few coats of polyurethane. From there, I drilled four separate 1.5" holes in the center of it, equally spaced. I'm sorry, but I don't remember the spacing of it, but I can measure them if someone is really interested.
From there, I cut the sink flange, mentioned earlier, into four .5" sections.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101102_213905.jpg)
I then took #8 Hardware cloth, cut it into 2" squares, placed them over the holes, and pushed the sink flange disks into place.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101102_213911.jpg)
Until they were smooth.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182456.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182503.jpg)
Continue to push it through till the screen is flat with the other side. If there is any excess hardware cloth, cut it off.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182521.jpg)
Grab your Guerilla Glue.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182536.jpg)
And place a very small bead in-between the sink flange disk and the wood.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182559.jpg)
Allow it to dry, and you're good to go. I like to keep my flat screen side on the outside of the hive, and the "inner cup portion" on the inside of the hive. This makes it look nicer from the outside.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182508.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101103_182503.jpg)
Sorry, but that's all I have time for today. Take it easy, and thanks for stopping by.
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Now I'm ready to start building.
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Thanks for the great pictures and how-to info. I am also going to build one of these this winter. My wife (also into woodworking) and I finally have gotten our shop heated, so this will be a nice winter project. cdevier
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Thanks for the kind words rockdog and cdevier. I'm honored that your first posts were in this thread. Thanks for watching!
I figured it had been a while, so I'll give you an update: I've finished building the hive, but I'm WAY behind on the posts. Finals came around, and right now I left for Europe. Not trying to make excuses, but that's basically what I'm doing.
So, when I make it back to the states, I'll take some more pictures and show you how to finish it up. Then, once it gets warmer, I'll put some bees in it too!
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specialkayme,
GREAT series. GREAT photos. Even a novice wood worker like me OUGHT to be able to do this right. I like the way you are moving the feeder to the front rather than the side. I also like the debris opening and trays in the bottom.
One comment....you talk about measuring and getting the "hexagons" correctly. The trouble is.....you measured and cut "octagons" instead. Hexagons are 6-sided and your upper and lower Lazy Susan boards are 8-sided.
Sorry.
That is the only thing I can find wrong. It is a wonderful design.
Enjoy your trip to Europe.
By the way...I tried to print your post and it is 91 pages SO FAR! I am looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Fuzzybeekeeper
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HAHAHAHA.
My 8th grade Geometry teacher would be angry. I think I meant to type Octagons, but just wrote Hexagons. Who knows though. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though. And heck, if that's your only issue with the post, I'll take it and run :D :D :D
It might be better off viewing it electronically, rather than printing it off, if it's 91 pages. Although looking at the pictures as you are making cuts would certainly be helpful.
Thanks for all the kind words. I really appreciate it. If in the process of building you get stuck, just give a hollar. I'd love to lend some helpful advice, or further clarification on what was unclear before.
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So it's been almost two months since I posted an update, and almost a month since I've finished the hive. I'm real sorry if anyone has been waiting for pictures to finish their builds. But, it's my hope that I can finish it up today. Unfortunately, since I've spent so long between posts, some of the pictures have walked away :roll:, or maybe I deleted them :-X either way I'm sorry. We'll make do with what I have.
Day 9
Having finished the side rails, the dual windows, the top board with ventilation, the bottom board with feeder and screen drawers, and the detachable lazy susan base, we next build the "shutters" that keep the light out, and put it all together.
So first we start off with two 1/4" oak boards, each 29"x17". I don't have pictures of me cutting them, but I should hope by this point you can cut them on your own.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_104652.jpg)
At this point I've already given one side of the boards a few coats of polyurethane.
Next, grab some felt, available at Walmart for fairly cheap.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_104707.jpg)
Additionally, you will need some glue to attach the felt to the boards. The choice of glue is yours to make. I chose Tacky Glue. I grew up with the stuff, and it works great. I especially like that you can spray it on, and then you have a few min to position it before the glue totally sets, but when it does it holds very well.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_104731.jpg)
Position the boards out and cut the felt so that it is just a little bit larger than the boards.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_105433.jpg)
The reason why you want the felt a little bit larger is so that it folds over the edges. This way, you ensure that it fits snug in the window and seals out the light. If you have a hard time fitting the board in the window you can always just take a razor blade and cut off the excess.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_110954.jpg)
a snug fit means less light getting into the OH, and a happier hive.
Next, of course, you just apply the glue to the un-poly side of the board, then attach the felt.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20101107_111534.jpg)
So now we just need to assemble the parts. Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of me assembling it. So sorry. But I can tell you that I used a dowel kit, drilled holes, put glue on the dowels and attached it all. It's somewhat anti-climactic that I don't have pictures of me finishing it, but I think you can get this far. Here is a shot of the dowels
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155739.jpg)
The only other thing that you need to build is latches to attach the shutter boards to the window frames. I just used some scrap wood.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155758.jpg)
It doesn't really matter how big they are, or how many you use. Personally, I had to use 6 on each side. The boards were somewhat warped (didn't realize how much till I got home) and the only way to keep them in place fairly flat is to secure them two on each side and one on the top and bottom. Here is a close up of what one looks like in place.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155822.jpg)
The latches swivel based on the position of the screw, so don't screw them in too much. Here, you can see the finally assembled hive body, and if you look close enough you can see the positioning of the latches.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155839.jpg)
And the other side, the one with the feeder, with the shutter on.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155854.jpg)
Additionally, I built a base for the hive. You don't need to build one, but I had some spare wood lying around, so why not. Here's the lazy susan base attached to it.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155902.jpg)
And a look from the underside.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155920.jpg)
If you notice, you'll see a white tube coming out of the center. This is one of those flange tubes I was talking about earlier. I put this in the center of the base, and routed a groove to keep it in place. Additionally, you should see four 7/16" poplar dowels sticking out. In the past I've had a difficult time knowing when the base of the OH is lined up with the hive. If you don't line it up the entrance doesn't work and the ladies can't come in or out. Having to hold a heavy OH and push it around makes for a frustrating time as you try to line up the entrance holes. These four dowels stick out the top of the base and make it much easier to line up the lazy susan base.
First, you need to drill 7/16" holes in the base of the lazy susan, each of equal distance away from the two around them.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155952.jpg)
You don't need to go very deep, just enough to make a noticeable dimple.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_155959.jpg)
Then make four 7/16" holes in the base in the same spot, and stick in the dowels. I rounded off the dowels to make sure they fit in the holes easier.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_160006.jpg)
And another shot of it.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_160013.jpg)
So, that's it! That's the build! In the end, you have a fantastic three frame deep or four frame medium observation hive made of oak, sitting on a lazy susan base with a dual shut off slide and a screened bottom board. Just about the best observation hive I've seen so far. I wouldn't say perfect (you can all see I've made several mistakes along the way), but it is a step in the right direction. So, lets take a step back and look at this fine oak observation hive (sitting on a weak pine base. sorry, but my wife said I had to finish it that day, pine was all I had on hand).
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_163007.jpg)
And one last shot.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110105_163019.jpg)
So there you go. The only thing I need to do is take a tube and connect it to the window and fill it full of bees. Of course, I'll need to wait for warmer weather to install the bees, but that's ok, it's worth the wait.
Lastly, thanks to everyone for stoping by, checking in, reading and watching. I appreciate all the comments and concerns. If you think I did something wrong, say so! I'd love to find out I screwed up, then I can make another one that's even better :-D Just kidding!
Thanks again, and have a fantastic day!
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Looks great, just where the bees at? :-D Looks very good.
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Lol, sorry, no bees in it just yet. Still waiting for a few warmer days. I don't want to get chill brood on the few frames I have.
Just out of curiosity, has anyone found this thread helpful? Is anyone using it to make their own Observation Hive? Anyone making any modifications? I'd love to hear about it, love even more to see pictures :mrgreen:
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Yes, it's been extremely helpful. I'm making my own OH, based mostly on your plan-- the main difference being that mine will be wall-mounted.
Here's my problem: My workshop is in my garage, which is unheated. When the temperature drops below 30, I stop work. (I think it's bad policy to work with power tools after you've lost feeling in your fingers.) So my project is suspended until we get some warmer weather.
I'll send pix when I get it done. You'll see the similarity.
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Awesome, thanks Phill. Good luck with it, and keep us posted.
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You did an excellent job in posting pictures and info.
I now have all my parts cut for the main frame - I just ordered glass yesterday. I also picked out another rough-cut oak 2 x 8 and put it in the shop to equalize the moisture in it. Tomorrow I will cut it up for the base.
Again, thanks for the great instructions.
cdevier
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Thanks for the kind words cdevier. I'm glad that the posts were helpful to you, and it pleases me to hear that you are using it to make your own.
Feel free to post pictures/questions as you go.
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Alright everyone, I made one last modification to the observation hive that I think you should be aware of. Not necessary, but if you are going to the trouble why not.
One of the main problems with an observation hive, is whenever you open them up to do regular maintenance, or move them, you have the potential of stressing them out to the point that they think their hive isn't suitable for their needs. So, just like an individual who is renting a crappy apartment when they can afford better, they move. I'm of course referring to absconding.
In the past I've just let them do their thing, if they liked their home after a tough move, a queen marking, or some regular maintenance, so be it. If they didn't I would be fine with them being happy some where else. Last summer I lost two hives to absconding. I'm done with it.
So I tried closing up the hive for a day or two, and giving them a chance to calm down and realize their home isn't so bad after all. This of course prevents a hive (who has few forager bees as it is) from getting pollen, nectar, water, propolis, and what not. But more importantly, one time I forgot to open it back up and remembered a week later.
So now I don't stop them from leaving, but I restrict the queen's movement for a few days through the use of a queen excluder at the entrance. This just makes sure that if the queen tries to leave, she'll be stopped most of the time, and I'm given the opportunity to fix the problem or they are given an opportunity to realize their home is some sweet digs. The queen excluder is NOT an attempt to prevent swarming, as it would be an ineffective attempt. I wished to incorporate the queen excluder into the observation hive, instead of taping it to the window as I've done before.
So I started with a 10 frame plastic excluder and cut a square out of it.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110129_113851.jpg)
I then took the square, and trimmed a it down to a 1.5" circle. I then took the original sliding valve strip of wood that goes on the underside of the hive, and drilled a 1.5" hole below where the original entrance hole was. From there, I put the queen excluder circle in place and glued it with some Guerilla Glue.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110129_113903.jpg)
The goal is if I wish to keep them in place, I slide the strip of wood so that no hole matches up with their normal entrance, blocking off the flow. If I want un restricted flow, I slide it so the unrestricted hole is in place. If I only want to restrict the queen, I slide it even further so that the queen excluder is in place.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110129_113857.jpg)
I then moved the base and the stand over closer to the wall, attached a 45 degree pvc pipe to the pipe flange that was running through the stand, and attached a clear plastic hose to the pvc pipe. That of course goes to the wall, giving the ladies an entrance and exit.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110131_073231.jpg)
Then, of course, moving the rest of it in place.
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110131_073210.jpg)
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110131_073224.jpg)
And last, but certainly not least, the weather was warm enough last weekend that I was able to stock it with some bees.
Ta Da!!!!!
(http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv54/JustinWKay/IMG_20110131_073313.jpg)
Thanks for stopping by!
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At last I'm finished with my observation hive-- which, as you'll see, owes a lot to specialkayme's model. Thanks for the tips and encouragement!
Now all I need is bees. And since it's coming to the time when I'll want to split one of my hives, that should take care of itself.
I'd be happy to answer questions about the design. Give me a while, and I can also talk about the results.
(http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4046/dsc0064iw.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/197/dsc0064iw.jpg/)
(http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/4945/dsc0055uc.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/5/dsc0055uc.jpg/)
(http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/1673/dsc0047fw.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/dsc0047fw.jpg/)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6897/dsc0051ykk.th.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/dsc0051ykk.jpg/)
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Very nice!
Might I ask if you built panels to cover up the sides? Being that close to the window, I would hate for the observation hive to turn into a solar wax melter. Plus, they seem to like the darkness more than the light.
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I have some felt covers coming to put over the glass.
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Nice!
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Outstanding tutorial. Now if someone would post one like this of them building a robo-style bee vac. Thanks. -James
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Lol, perhaps in time Dixie. I know eventually I'll need a bee vac, and I'm too cheap to buy one so . . .
That and a pollen trap. I can't find a reliable design ANYWHERE for one of those.
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Sometimes I wonder if I'm typing all this stuff out for myself, or if anyone is actually benefitting from this. If nothing else, at least it is giving me "plans" to rebuild it, if I should ever need to (although it's all basically in my head anyway).
Special K,
Your plans are the best I have seen anywhere. I have been looking for a long time. I have been plained some black walnut and let it settle for a while. I started building it this past weekend. I'm using black walnut that a friend in Michigan gave me. He cut the trees down and had them sawed on site. It has been sitting for about 10 years. I think it will be perfect for this project.
I have 2 large sheets of tempered, shower door ,glass. Does anyone know if I can cut it like regular glass? Will it shatter when I try to cut it?
Thanks again for the plans.
Jim
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I'm glad you could use the thread! Thanks so much for the kind words, it's taken several years to develop my design.
I would LOVE to have some older black walnut to work with. I've been reading about reclaimed wood, and have been trying to find some, but don't know where it is in my area.
Unfortunately, I don't know anything about cutting glass. I have always had Home Depot or the glass supply company cut it for me. Good luck, and keep us posted!
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I would LOVE to have some older black walnut to work with. I've been reading about reclaimed wood, and have been trying to find some, but don't know where it is in my area.
How much of it do you need?
Jim
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Lol, at the moment . . . none. I just started a new job and don't have the time to start a new woodworking project. I also don't really have any plans to build anything at the moment. But it was super nice of you to ask.
Hopefully at some point I'll be building something new. I might drop you a line to ask your advice at that point in time.
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I have 2 large sheets of tempered, shower door ,glass. Does anyone know if I can cut it like regular glass? Will it shatter when I try to cut it?
No you can't cut tempered glass. It will shatter.
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I have 2 large sheets of tempered, shower door ,glass. Does anyone know if I can cut it like regular glass? Will it shatter when I try to cut it?
No you can't cut tempered glass. It will shatter.
Thanks, I suspected it might, that is why I asked.
Jim
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I finished my observation hive. It is made from all black walnut, no stain, except for the black out panels.
Here are the pictures. Thanks for the design Special K. I will be displaying it in the Jacksonville fair, in another 2 weeks, for our club display.
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/9950/dsc1079s.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/9950/dsc1079s.jpg)
http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2764/dsc1073a.jpg (http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/2764/dsc1073a.jpg)
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Wow, beautiful Sawdstmakr! Congrat on your new hive. :)
Now you just need to videocam it for those of us who need to live vicariously.
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Way cool. I'd love to have something like that. Doubt the wife would allow it though.
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Way cool. I'd love to have something like that. Doubt the wife would allow it though.
Yea, my wife kept saying that your not putting a hive in either house, while I was building it. The picture that you see is in the farm house. I put 2 frames of bees in it for the party. It was a big hit. Once she saw that it stays locked and can be taken out side to work on it it was OK. Now she will let me put it in our closed in patio. I just have to make a 8" stand to raise it up high enough above the corner table to allow the tube to come out of the bottom and I will drill a hole through the 4" x6" vertical beam between the windows.
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Wow, beautiful Sawdstmakr! Congrat on your new hive. :)
Now you just need to videocam it for those of us who need to live vicariously.
Thats another project further down the road.
Jim
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Looks great sawd. I'm glad you could use the plans!
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Looks great sawd. I'm glad you could use the plans!
Thanks Special K,
I installed the OH in my closed in patio. I wasn't going to put any bees in it until spring but when I inspected my 3 hives I found one hive only had 2 frames of bees. I put them in it but only ended up with a 3rd of a frame of bees. They are holding there own so far. I started feeding them and the queen has been laying a few eggs. I have larva growing now. I saw 2 hive beetles, squished one between the plastic and a frame. the bees seem to be hanging in there. Hopefully they will start to grow in numbers.
Jim
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Good luck with it.
I was in your shoes a few years ago. My bees didn't end up making it though. They just dwindled in numbers until they had a total population that could fit in the palm of my hand. It ended shortly after that though.
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Thanks for all the pictures and instructions. I am thinking about making an observation hive and will likely use at least some of your ideas, although I would prefer a wall-mounted hive.
One question: are the spindles necessary to stabilize the unit or are they only decorative?
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Good luck with it.
I was in your shoes a few years ago. My bees didn't end up making it though. They just dwindled in numbers until they had a total population that could fit in the palm of my hand. It ended shortly after that though.
Just an update:
This queen held on, I probably had 60 bees left taking care of her. About a month ago I gave her a frame of brood and eggs and shook an egg frame to add the nurse bees. They built up very nicely, she started laying eggs the very next day, after they released her from what turned out to be a protective ball of bees. I had put a news paper divider below the new frame but at the last minute before I closed it up she got above into the new bees. She continued to fill every void with eggs in that frame. 2 weeks ago, I split my main hive and put her in a large queen cage that I built and 3 days later they had totally accept her. I check her this weekend and she is laying solid brood patterns. She had one frame with a nice capped brood around the outside and a football size area in the middle that had every cell filled with eggs.
I left the OBH queen less and have been documenting what is happening. But that is for another thread.
Jim
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Thank you so much for posting this! I want to make my own observation hive and this helped break down the process in more manageable chunks. Thanks for sharing this.
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The Photobucket pictures icons say "Photobucket 3rd party hosting has been temporarily disabled." Anyone know how to view and save the photos?