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Author Topic: problem in hive  (Read 2470 times)

Offline eddiedlzn

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problem in hive
« on: September 08, 2007, 04:11:30 pm »
I went out and checked my hive today. It was the first time in about a month.The last time I checked they had one deep and three mediums full. I added two more mediums to that. when I checked today they had done nothing with the new ones the first medium was still full and the other two were now empty. I did not check the deep I will later today. I noticed a lot of drones and drone cell in the bottom medium. I think maybe the queen got killed or flew off. There is still a ton of worker bees and I have seen them bringing in a lot of pollen. I would really like some advice.

Online Michael Bush

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2007, 04:45:36 pm »
Are there eggs?  Open brood?  Capped Brood?  Old emerged queen cells?  Capped queen cells?  A queen?  What does the brood nest look like?
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Offline eddiedlzn

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #2 on: September 08, 2007, 06:15:19 pm »
I did not see any eggs a little larva I think its just drone though some capped drone cells no sighn of queen or queen cells. I am pretty upset with it all, the bees seem angry I got stung up today

Online Michael Bush

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #3 on: September 08, 2007, 07:18:35 pm »
Any multiple eggs?  Signs of laying workers?  Drone caps on worker brood?  Very spotty cappings?

http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslayingworkers.htm
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Offline n9kww

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #4 on: September 08, 2007, 08:11:33 pm »
If i were a betting man and without seeing the hive, it sounds from you obervations atht you may in fact have a hive that is queenless or the very least not queen right. May have a unmated queen, no queen or a queen that is not laying for some reason. I woould susoect a queen problem, although that may not be the problem, it sure has the signs of a queen problem

Offline Kathyp

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2007, 11:52:33 pm »
i like the idea that cindi posted.  take your camera out and take pictures of each side of each frame.  you'll see more when you go back in and look at the pictures than you'll see while you are out at the hive.  you can take your time and look for eggs, larvae, the queen, etc.

after you see what's going on up close, you'll be better able to make a plan of action if one is needed.
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Offline Brian D. Bray

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2007, 12:01:38 am »
With what I've been experiencing here in the PNW, I'd have to say that it sounds more like your bees are undergoing a dearth.  During a dearth they will consume what stores they have and the queen will quit laying.  Try feeding your bees a 1:1 and see if that doesn't change things.
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Offline eddiedlzn

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2007, 01:00:41 am »
I searched my hive pretty good for sighns of the queen but was unable to locate her. It was difficult because the bees were aggravated and the huge number of bees in the hive. I got another week colony with a queen from a local beekeeper that surely has a queen its pretty week though. It was a late swarm. He was nice enough to just give me it. I combined them today with the newspaper method. I am kind of worried now because I was reading in my beekeeping for dummies book that if they had a laying worker that they would not exept a new queen. Should I bee worried that they will not exept her?

Offline JP

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2007, 02:40:30 am »
I would be concerned that if you have a laying worker that they would not accept this queen, and kill her. You will soon find out. Don't worry though, look, listen, and learn from this experience, and apply the knowledge on a future hive. That's beekeeping for you. ;)
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Online Michael Bush

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Re: problem in hive
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2007, 07:39:52 am »
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslayingworkers.htm

If you really want to introduce a bought queen, I would give them a frame of open brood from another hive now.  Then in about a week put the new queen in a push in cage over some emerging brood and a little bit of honey.  Don't let her out of the cage until the bees are not biting on the cage anymore.  The larger the cage the better.  I'd go for 5 1/2" by 8" of #8 hardware cloth (8 wires to an inch).  Just cut a piece of hardware cloth 3/4" more than that and fray off three rows of wires all the way around.  Then 3/4" from the corners of the wire ends, cut 3/4" into it (3 wires past where you removed the wires).  Fold the edges 3 wires in over to make the sides and fold the excess 3/4" around the corner.  This will push into the comb 3/8" and stick up from the comb 3/8".  Be sure to leave 3/8" between the top of the cage and the next frame.  This may require removing a frame but at least will require crowding them all to the outsides.

http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/beeproject/images/puchincagelarge.jpg
http://www.honeyflowfarm.com/beeproject/images/puchincage.jpg

Here's Doolittle's description of it:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesdoolittle.htm#ValuableQueen

"Having the Queen's wings clipped, and in the cage, I next take a piece of wire-cloth, containing 14 or 16 meshes to the inch, and cut it four-and-one-half by eight-and-one-half inches in size. Now cut a piece three-fourths of any inch square out of each corner, and bend the four sides at right angles, so as to make a box, as it were, three inches wide by seven inches long, and three-fourths of an inch deep. Next, unravel the edges down one-half way, so that the points can be pressed into the combs, and if the corners do not stay together as they should, they can be sowed together with one of the wires which were unraveled [Fig. 5, page 50].

"Having the cage ready, and the Queen to be introduced, in your pocket, proceed to look for the Queen to be replaced, and after removing her, examine the combs until you find one from which the bees are just hatching, or where you can see them gnawing at the cappings of the cells, which comb should also have some honey along the top-bar of the frame above the hatching brood.

"Now shake and brush every bee off this comb, and place the Queen that you have in your pocket on it, by putting the open end of the cage near the comb over some cells of unsealed honey, when she will go to the comb, and as soon as she comes to the honey, she will begin eating. While she is doing this, put the large cage over her and the hatching brood, as you wish, taking all of the time that is needed, for as long as she continues eating, she will not go away, nor be disturbed by any of your motions.

"Having honey in the cage is necessary, for the bees outside of the cage cannot be depended upon to feed a Queen when she is being introduced. Some claim that if the cage is made of wire-cloth having large meshes, the bees will feed them; but after losing many Queens by depending upon the bees to care for them, I say always provision your introducing-cage in some way, so that the Queen is not dependent upon the bees for her food while in the cage. "--G.M. Doolittle, Scientific queen-rearing
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