Author Topic: upper entrance (Read 2880 times)

binglis · « **on:** July 20, 2006, 06:14:15 pm »

I am new, and bought a beginners kit. The inner cover does not have an entrance/ hole, as is referenced in the books I have been reading.
Can I create one?
What size should it be?
Where should it be located?
Thanking you in Advance...

Apis629 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 20, 2006, 06:37:44 pm »

The inner covers don't have "entrance holes". It is a hole in the center that is usually an oblong oval. around 1 1/2 inches wide and around 4 inches long. I can't/don't use them here in Florida.

shado_knight · « **Reply #2 on:** July 20, 2006, 07:04:17 pm »

Some inner covers have entrance holes, some do not. You can notch out one on the front side of the inner cover, I made mine aprox 1" wide, & half of the thickness of the cover. You can also put a spacer with an entrance hole on top of the inner cover. I actually have 3 top entrance holes. Helps with ventilation more than anything, my bees don't actually use them, but they do hang out around the inside of them. Gaurding them I geuss.

Zoot · « **Reply #3 on:** July 20, 2006, 11:21:22 pm »

Speaking of an additional shim above the top cover with additional holes (mine also has 3 in additon to a screened vent along each side to enhance ventilation)....has anyone ever noted an increased tendancy for robbing to take place with these added top entrances? I am concerned now as I have just started feeding syrup again in this hive due to our midsummer lull here.

Brian D. Bray · « **Reply #4 on:** July 21, 2006, 01:23:35 am »

I used to use upper entrances years ago before I stumbled on the solution that proper ventilation provides. I found that the top entrance created a tendency for it to rain inside the hive if not ventilated to some extent. Now that I've got the other problems with a Langstroth hive eliminated I am making a new style bottom board and upper entrances that have a built in slatted rack.
I can see that the upper entrance does have the advantage of making it harder for skunks to tap your hive for a midnight snack and also provides better hive security because it makes it so much harder for robber bees to get past all the bees near the entrance that upper entrance would create.

Has anyone noticed that the slatted racks curb robbing because of the mass of bees guarding the entrance?

Finsky · « **Reply #5 on:** July 21, 2006, 01:32:50 am »

I have upper entrances in hives. I like them and bees like them. In winter one upper hole is necessary in every hive.

Now I use very tiny holes that bees can fly go tgrough them.

It they are too open they keep hive too cool

In winter upper entrance is very necessary that moisture escapes from hive. Same say Canadians.

Rain: when you drill hole a little bit upward direction rain will not enter into hive.
Robbers: upper holes does not encourage robbing. If beekeeper keeps hive open too long in robbing time autumn other hives attach. Nothing to do with entrances.

Zoot · « **Reply #6 on:** July 21, 2006, 12:10:19 pm »

Just out of curiosity, what diameter are your upper escape/entrance holes?

Finsky · « **Reply #7 on:** July 21, 2006, 12:38:43 pm »

.

15-20 mm is good. Round is better. It is easy to close.

.

Matz · « **Reply #8 on:** July 22, 2006, 01:47:59 pm »

Finsky's bang on, with the long cold climate here in Canada, condensation can be a real hive killer. All of my insulated lids have a dato groove on the bottom side 2"x3"x3/8" deep with a metal strip that swivels to closem up. Not only do they let condensation out in winter, but we'll flip open mid summer when hives are 4 deeps and overflowing with bees as well.