I have over a dozen Long Hives and will be making another 10 or so over winter. They're my favourite hives, but not ideal for every purpose - so I have quite a few vertical hives as well which are used for queen-rearing and the development of nucs.
I have one or two Long Hives with legs which are static - but the rest are kept as simple boxes. Living either on a trailer, or two to a plastic pallet.
I gave up on the idea of multiple occupation, as I discovered that partition boards (for some reason called 'follower' boards - but not sure what it is that they follow ...) can seldom be made bee-tight. So - I cut-off 1.5" from the bottom of each partition board, and now make the boxes 32" long, enough for 20 frames, and fit battens to each end of the box so that they can be easily lifted when empty. Any longer and I couldn't get my arms around them ... :)
If I were in a more nectar-abundant area, then maybe I'd add 3 or 4 small supers overhead, but I'm not, so there's no need for this right now. But maybe in the years to come ... ?
I once tried central side entrances and found that my bees got 'lost' in not knowing where the back of the cavity was, and so created divided stores areas. As this could have led to winter starvation, I make entrances only at one end now.
In general, I find that Long Hives require just a little more management than vertical hives, in order that store combs don't create a barrier to brood chamber expansion - but otherwise they're far more flexible than vertical hives in that just one or two frames can be added when needed (rather than a box-full at a time) - or a few pinched to make-up the odd nuc - without there being any need to worry about filling-up a box with dummies or empty frames to prevent wild comb being drawn.
Almost forgot - I also fit Open Mesh to roughly one-quarter of the floor area - along one side - so that the hive can be tilted slightly during winter in order that any excess condensation may exit via that mesh.