Hive Cooling/Venting (when to start ?)

[Tucker1]

Lately, a few of the posts have mentioned venting or cooling of hives. Most of the conversations have been initiated by BKs located in the southern U.S., who may be starting to address this issue now. In eastern Washington State, the weather is still cool, with only a few warmer days very once in awhile. So overheating of hives isn't a issue presently. In August that may be a real issue, with temperature reaching the upper 90's often. Having said all that .......

When do you become worried about over-heating of the hive ? How do you know the hive is over heating?  Are fanning bees the only indicator?

How do you address the issue of high daytime temperatures, but much cooler evening temperatures ?

If you have a solid wood base board (vs a screened base board), do you need to do something different?

Thanks in advance for any ideas, answers or suggestions.

Regards,
Tucker1

[tillie]

You know, the bees are in charge - they manage the heating/cooling of the hive.  We can help them a little by providing possible ventilation for them.  That can happen by

1.  Propping the top open a little so that air can circulate better
2.  Using screened bottom boards, both contributing to ventilation and varroa mite control
3.  Using slatted racks for ventilation - allows the bees to hang out in the hive rather than on the front porch

Hope that helps - if you search "slatted racks" or "hive ventilation" you'll find lots of previous posts on this issue.

Linda T in Atlanta

[Scadsobees]

Fanning don't mean all that much...they sometimes just want a little airflow to get humid air out so the honey can cure faster.  On the other hand, if they have too much ventilation, they can easily cope with that too.

The best indication that they need more air will be when you start seeing them bearding.  When half the hive is sitting around the entrance of the hive in the evening, then they need some more air.

They can, however, survive fine if you don't ventilate.  But they will do better if you do.  Some beeks will do as Linda said, but also if those aren't an option then they offset the supers so there is a gap (as long as robbing won't be an issue), or use shims to create gaps, and "imarie shim" sp? is an example of that.

Rick

[Brian D. Bray]

Lately, a few of the posts have mentioned venting or cooling of hives. Most of the conversations have been initiated by BKs located in the southern U.S., who may be starting to address this issue now. In eastern Washington State, the weather is still cool, with only a few warmer days very once in awhile. So overheating of hives isn't a issue presently. In August that may be a real issue, with temperature reaching the upper 90's often. Having said all that .......

It will become a problem on the Palouse before August.

When do you become worried about over-heating of the hive ? How do you know the hive is over heating?  Are fanning bees the only indicator?

Over-heating can happen even during a 1 day hot spell.  Bearding is usually an indication that there are too many bees for adequate air circulation within the hive.  Fanning is just a locator beacon.

How do you address the issue of high daytime temperatures, but much cooler evening temperatures ?

It can be addressed once and good for the entire year.  Proper ventilation is the key.  For proper ventilation an air vent at the highest point in the hive is necessary.  A permanent set up of SBB and vent at the top works well in all types of weather, even below zero.  Such things as slatted racks helps provide both interior expansion space, a work platform for moving air, and a insulation air of dead air during the colder times.

If you have a solid wood base board (vs a screened base board), do you need to do something different?

Thanks in advance for any ideas, answers or suggestions.

Regards,
Tucker1

Something as simple as popsicle sticks between the box and top works as well slatted racks.  The easier it is for the bees to circulate air in the hive, the better, and if they just have to circulate it up (vent at top) instead of up and then down it's even better.

[Tucker1]

I plan to inspect the hive later this weekend, hopefully rotate my brood boxes, and should be adding supers at that time. I don't have a SBB or a slatted rack to add to the hive. So, to help ensure that the girls remain comfortable, I try raising the top cover ~ 1/8th of an inch using a few  paint stirrers. (Something good has finally come out of all the house painting.) They should give me an 1/8th of inch of clearance between the inner cover and the outer cover.  If I cut the shims  into 4 inch lengths, I can place them around the inner cover lip and control the length of the openings.  Thanks for the suggestions.

My hive is somewhat protected from the very strong winds we get here on the Palouse, by 3 small pine trees, which serve to break up the wind. Come winter time, I plan to use a few bails of hay to protect them from the strong winter winds.

I've been told that the Honey flow begins in earnest after the first of June. This will be my first effort as a bee keeper, so hopefully I've done a few right things.

Regards,
Tucker1

[tillie]

I just stick a stick in the back to prop up the telescoping cover - usually the stick I find a decent sized one.  I'm not sure a paint stirrer will make enough difference, but maybe it will be fine.



http://beekeeperlinda.blogspot.com/2007/04/back-doors-for-bees.html

Linda T in Atlanta

[Michael Bush]

The indicator, as stated, is bearding.  When they are bearding, they are in need or more ventilation or more room.  make sure they have both and see if it goes away.

[Moonshae]

I've had a lot of success with Honey Run's all season covers. They give out the plans to make your own if you're handy (which I'm not, but I found a friend who is...score!). They do a great job of ventilating in the summer when it's hot, and it gets filled with insulating foam in the fall, winter, and spring to retain warmth. There's a gap for a top entrance, which also lets out moisture in the winter. The center of the foam can be removed in the fall/spring to feed with a jar while still insulating the top. Both my hives did great with them last winter, and all my full-size hives that overwinter this year will have them.

Hope that didn't sound like an ad, I'm not trying to do that at all. I'm just a fan of these covers.

[annette]

two hives have those honey run covers and I am a big fan also of these ventilated covers.