First, let me thank all of you for the responses. You all sound like seasoned, experienced, knowledgeable beeks. the issue is that I am not, being a novice, new beek. So, what you all are recommending is still a stretch for me to comprehend. First, my goal is to have this colony reside in a hive body, brood chamber, (see, I don't even know the terminology?) with all ten frames that I can somewhat easily remove for inspection (why?, check for queen, laying pattern, mites in brood cells, stores of honey, pollen, etc. I don't know). I am somewhat believing that this requires that I get the queen to move to another box for her laying, is this correct? She will do this when the original (present) ten frames have no room for decent brood laying, is this correct? This new box with new frames I must add, this I know since the present hive consists of the original fused frames single deep box. Do I add this deep below the existing or above the existing? and why? and what is the catalyst that drives the queen into this box rather than remaining in the original?
About the queen, this is all conjecture on this new beek's part. She may be new, I am not sure that the original queen survived the vacuuming or made the transfer into the hive box. There did not appear to be much laying at first, but by the end of September, (recall that the removal was early August), the colony size began increasing noticeably. like from less than 3 lbs count to 5 or 6 by the end of Oct. So, the suggestion that I might start a second colony in a NUC using the four original frames of cutout confuses me. Aren't there way too few bees to split the colony? How do I keep the existing queen with the original frames such that worker bees will make a new queen from the new brood in the new box? At this point, assuming the colony survives the six remaining weeks of frozen tundra, I will be happy to get the colony to prepare ten new manageable frames. Any further recommendations appreciated. Ron