Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => NATURAL & ORGANIC BEEKEEPING METHODS => Topic started by: Pond Creek Farm on April 24, 2011, 11:23:52 pm
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I have several frames with starter strips. I started with thin surplus, but this has to be replaced every year after a crush and stain. I do not relish this. I have also used plastic foundation as a starter strip. (I cut the edges and stapled them into the goove. I only get two per sheet of plastic that I saw up due to thickness). These seem to work well in that they are in place and re-usable each year. So, I am out of the edges of the old Mann Lake plastic foundation that came with the kits. What should I use now as a starter strip that will be re-usable and easy to construct?
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Craft sticks, paint stir sticks, nothing, wedges of wedge top frames turned down...just about anything. If you already have drawn frames to work with you can put anything sandwiched between two drawn frames and they will draw it out straight.
Scott
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Walter Kelly also sells frames with built in starter strips that are just fantastic! In Deep & medium.
http://kelleybees.com/CMS/CMSPage.aspx?breadcrumb=true&pageName=Products&ProductId=6563%7cProductGroup%7c%7c%7c518%7c0&organizationId=3 (http://kelleybees.com/CMS/CMSPage.aspx?breadcrumb=true&pageName=Products&ProductId=6563%7cProductGroup%7c%7c%7c518%7c0&organizationId=3)
...JP
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Any wedge top bar with the wedge rotated 90 degrees works fine. A strip off of a 3/4" board ripped to 1/8" works fine. The triangular top bars on Kelley's frames are very nice.
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Instead of cutting out the entire comb, why dont you leave about an inch worth at the top to reuse again?
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Another option - coroplast in grooved top bars. Easy to install (1 air staple) and lasts the life of the frame
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/660-2/Picture.jpg)(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/651-2/Picture+012.jpg)
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When you cut off the comb for crush and strain, there is a little ridge left on the bar - even if you cut right next to the bar.
I don't on purpose leave any particular length of comb when I cut it off, but all the bees need is the beginning of a cell to get started. There's always a little left. I never replace the strip after the first year. I just put the dripping frames back into the hive and if there is a flow on, they'll immediately draw new comb and fill it with honey.
Linda T in Atlanta
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One cell across the top is plenty. As Linda says, even the outline of a cell will work. You don't need a whole inch.
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great information. The frames from last years harvest do have a little ridge of wax filling the groove. It sounds like that will be fine and then I can use the strip of wood or sign material for new frames. Thanks folks, I appreciate the help.
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Another option - coroplast in grooved top bars. Easy to install (1 air staple) and lasts the life of the frame
(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/660-2/Picture.jpg)(http://www.bushkillfarms.com/gallery2/d/651-2/Picture+012.jpg)
Sorry to reply to such an old post but I am building frames this weekend and was wondering what direction the holes in the coroplast should point. Also, how far should it stick out? I think I read elsewhere the strips are cut 1/2" wide? Ultimate goal is comb honey.
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I don't believe direction of the holes really matters, or at least I haven't noticed. I prefer to but then vertical only because it makes it easier. Depending on the manufacturer of the frames, the grooves can be tight for the coroplast. In this case, I just squash the coroplast on the bench prior to installing and vertical holes make this easier (ie. push it in an offset manner and "fold" the divisions over)
As far as length, I would cut it as short as possible to get minimum extrusion since you plan on doing cut comb.
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Tounge depressors from doctors office works pretty good too. If you have doctor friends there free!
Bailey
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Where can you get the coroplast strips?
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Sign companies that make yard signs. They will probably have some scrap hanging around.
Bailey