Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: watercarving on January 25, 2008, 12:04:11 pm
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I'm thinking about going with all 8-frame, medium bodies. Is it cheaper to buy or build my own?
Where can I find construction plans for this size?
Thanks,
John
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beesource has a lot of plans on the website. i found that its cheaper to build my own if i don't count the cost of my own labor.
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I went on beesource but didn't see anything for 8-frame mediums.
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Correct me if I am wrong but I'm thinking the frame plus beespace is 1 3/8 "...so subtract 2 3/4" from your 16 1/4 ends and you have it? The inside width dimension of standard hive is 14 3/4, so I am guessing the inside width would be 12" for a 8 frame hive.
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http://www.beesource.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-209009.html
Quick google search on "8-frame super dimensions" gave me that. Then just add 3/4 or your wood thickness to get the outside measurements and modify the 10-frame plans accordingly.
One thing that I've found (and am grateful for!!) is that it doesn't matter if you are off by a little bit. If you get it wrong by even as much as an inch (width, bigger that is) then the frames are just spaced wider. In fact,you can put only 8 or 9 frames in 10-frame equipment, they just draw thicker combs.
A 1 inch larger mistake would make it a little problem on consecutive boxes, but not so much that you would ruin everything. 1/8- 1/4 inch you probably wouldn't notice in width.
If you get the height messed up a bit you will notice more propolis or bridge comb between boxes but it still works.
Rick
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Michael Bush can point you in the right direction. He cuts 10 frame boxes down to 8.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeseightframemedium.htm
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Yea, I have been building my own all winter. It gets easier the more you do. Plan on screwing up the first couple.... You have to get the process down. Cuting the handles in right side up etc. Getting your dato's on the right side... Anyway dpence is right on the dimensions, that is what I use.. Good luck.. Remember its all about practice, you will get to the point of cranking out 12-15 boxes in half a day start to finish is no big deal..
F
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Bees are remarkably tolerant of all sorts of mistakes. You might get some unwanted comb in places you'd rather not if you don't follow bee space, but short of making the supers too short for the frames you are unlikely to kill the bees. (Bee Culture had an article a while back on woodenware and dimensions - the upshot is "Know where your bee space allowance is"). I've built Hive bodies, lids, boards, inner covers, even cranked out a set of frames, and if I can do it, you can. Just be patient and learn to scavenge wood. :) BTW - I've found it isn't cost effective to make frames. Time + materials means frames are cheaper for me if I buy them. I have made top bars for foundationless frames and just used pre-cut end bars (which take most of my time to make). Hive bodies can be a close thing as well. It is really rewarding to build these things though. At least give building the bottom board a try. Once you succeed in nailing some 1x2s onto a piece of plywood you can move up to a migratory cover, and so on. Every little bit counts.
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Eight frame hives vary in width. All the ones available commercially (other than Western Bee Supply which will make them whatever you like) are either 14" (Betterbee and Mann Lake) or 13 3/4" (Brushy Mt and Miller Bee Supply). Mine are all 13 3/4". Either works fine. I would pick the one that has the accessories you want and has the cheapest shipping to your house if you're buying them. If you're making them either works. 13 7/8" would have the advantage of adapting pretty well to either of the other sizes.
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i thought the beesource plans for a langstroth hive had deeps, mediums, and shallows.
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Do you box cut the joints or just butt them together? Seems like butting them wouldn't be strong enough for outside use even with glue.
I don't have a workshop to do much work on the wood.
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I use box joints, they are much stronger. I started building my own, this winter, and the money that you save is well worth it. It takes a little practice to get them right. Robo has a post on this site that tells you how to set up a jig. I got a small table saw, compound miter, and a few more toys that don't take up much space. I am planning on adding 20 new hives, this year. I started adding up the cost of the new supers and fell over. The money that I saved will pay for most of the bees that I will get. Just takes a little practice and patients. Good Luck and go to Google and tyre in free beehive plans, there are alot.
Marcus
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i just rabbit the edges. i then glue and shoot staples. the glue is stronger than the wood. the staples act as a clamp until the glue dries. i use titebond 3.
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>Do you box cut the joints or just butt them together? Seems like butting them wouldn't be strong enough for outside use even with glue.
When I do butt joints I use deck screws and glue. They hold together fine. When I do rabbets I use glue and staples and maybe a few screws. They do fine as well. I've never tried to cut box joints. Personally I don't think it's worth building them, but since the shipping prices keep going up, I could be wrong. I bought my last batch of eight frame hives from Miller Bee Supply, but I think you can also get them from Rossmans.
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Just butt them together, use screws, and cross tie the sides to the ends by using a 1X2 as a handle.