Its a good idea to keep the brood area open between frosts.
This gives an opportunity to make more drawn foundation (which is always a premium). The problem that you will discover is that if you are using deeps in your brood area and mediums for honey supers, you can't just move the frames up another box (and that would have a great deal of different advantages). This is why a lot of beekeepers are changing over to just mediums and why a lot of new beekeepers are being told to start with all mediums as well. If you are going to pull frames of honey from the brood area, first off try to take capped frames as they will be cured honey and not just nectar (which can and will ferment over time, as does any nectar over 18% moisture). Once these frames are pulled you have a few options, you can freeze them so that you have spares if the spring is a little short, you can extract them, or crush and strain. If you extract or crush the comb, you can feed it back to the bees in the spring, but this is typically a practice that is avoided to prevent spreading disease. But not everyone owns or has space in chest freezer for frames of honey.
You mentioned that you have a frame of drone foundation. It is important to get using that as soon as possible. Drone populations have a tendancy to ramp upto fall time and that's when mite populations also start to increase since they come from mostly drone cells. A typical hive has about a 10% drone population during the honey season. If you do the math that would mean that you should add one frame for about every 9 or 10 frames of brood. It sounds like you meet that criteria. What most people want is the worker brood in the center of the brood nest. So with this, it would be advisable to put the drone frame next to the outside wall or outside the last significant frame of brood.
Now you're going to ask, how do I know what a significant frame of brood is? Well the brood area of a frame dimishes closer to winter and increases spring to summer. You are going to have to pull the frames and inspect them to see where and how much brood is being laid on each frame. From this you can determine where your drone frame should be located. You want it close enough to the brood area that the queen will remain warm enough to be comfortable to travel to the drone frame to lay, but outside the brood nest enough that it doesn't intrude upon worker brood area.
To start with you may need to introduce the frame more central until it becomes drawn out, but after that the aboves applies. Hopefully you understand that the frame needs to be uncapped (drones killed) several days before they are expected to hatch (or anytime you see them capped) . From those that use them, its been suggested to keep several spare uncapped so that you can just swap and go and not horse around with opening, running to garage or honey house, uncapping and opening the hive again.