Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: kdm on January 03, 2013, 09:36:05 am
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I am building some jumbo deeps. Boards are not available in 14 in. so i am planing on joining two boards together. I plan on cutting a kerf 3/8 on both boards edges and cut 3/4 pieces to join them together. Anyone have a better or quicker idea?
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Biskits or ship lap. One Of the queen breeders does ship lap or double lab cut as a rabbit.
David
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If your edges are flat, why not just glue the boards together. Bee sure to put a good smooth coat of a good water proof glue on both sides and clamp. The glue is stronger than the wood and would hold. I use a biskit joiner to make sure they are as flat as possible but in this case it is not necessary.
Jim
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Thank all of you for your tips,they are helpfull food for thought
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I agree with sawdstmakr If you have good flat surfaces the glue joint will be stronger than the wood.
I would use TIGHT BOND III glue it is suposed to be water proof.
Louie
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For long term reliability finger joints are your best option. They will outlast most other methods. I have had very good success with this method. Yes it is a little more work, but worth it if you want quality results that will last.
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/22617-02-200.jpg)
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Rob is right on the finger joint being the strongest. My second choice would be a rabbit joint, next a biscuit joint, and lastly a butt joint. Put together with Titebond III for a waterproof connection.
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I am building some jumbo deeps. Boards are not available in 14 in. so i am planing on joining two boards together. I plan on cutting a kerf 3/8 on both boards edges and cut 3/4 pieces to join them together. Anyone have a better or quicker idea?
Are you building Dadant Deeps ???
BEE HAPPY Jim 134 :)
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I've built a lot of boxes from recycled wood that has to be glued up. I just edge glue with tite bond III and paint. So far no problems.
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Anyone have a better or quicker idea?
Ditch the wood and go with sheet of polystyrene. ;) It’s cheaper, thermally similar to the bees natural home (tree cavities), and there’s no need to prep the hives for winter since they’re already insulated from the get go!
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j365/MichiganBee/Extra%20Deep%20Hives/jumbohiveinNov.jpg)
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I've glued 1/2" plywood edge-to-edge using D4 grade (exterior waterproof) resin glue for NUC boxes - no problems encountered, quick and easy. I plan on making a large number of long hives from old scaffold planks next year - will be joining 'em using the same glue - as in my experience bees don't appear to appreciate cabinet-making skills.
LJ
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Many good ideas. Robo i have bought a router but haven't had much experience with it. Jim 134 I am buiilding 10 frame jumbo deeps 11 5/8 deep. Bluebee the polystryene sounds interesting. You have cooler climate to deal with than me,but if i didn.t have the material already i would consider the polystryene. Thank you all for soooo many good ideas.
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You really need a router table for the finger jointing as well, so it sounds like this isn't a good option for you. Plenty of other options recommended that seem better suited for you. Best of luck.
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Blue bee how are you glueing the polystyrene and. What weigh are you using
David
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When one of my poly hives crack or break I mend them with water proof wood glue and glue them tightly under pressure with straps.
I suppose it depends on ho clean your cuts/joints are, are they uneven I think you would bee better of with a glue that could fill out the gaps a little.
mvh edward :-P
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I have been using polyurethane glue to glue polystyrene together. AKA, gorilla glue. You need PU glue when gluing foam to foam. However if one surface in porous, Windfall reported that you can use regular wood glue. The inner surfaces of my jumbos are clad in hardboard that was glued with gorilla. The next set I build (this winter) I'm going to use regular wood glue for the wood cladding. It is much cheaper and a whole lot easier to deal with than the expanding PU glue. I just buy 4'x8' sheet of foam from Home Depot/Lowes/Menards and cut it to size with a table saw. A 4'x8' sheet of 1.5" foam is $21 here. That makes a couple hives.
Strangely enough you can buy a 2" thick sheet of foam for the same price $21. 2" is 33% more insulation value for the same money, but is harder to work with and seems to be overkill for Michigan. I grit my teeth and buy the 1.5". Actually I wait for a sale and buy it at about $17 a sheet.
I should note: All my supers are wood. They get banged around so much, they really need to be wood for durability purposes. They are off during the winter, so they don't result in a heat loss.
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I Found And ordered 100 jumbo frames at Rossmans. tefer2 i will check with dadant for wax foundation.
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Buying frames is a big labor savings. Smart move! KDM, how many frames are you going to put in your jumbo boxes? 10? 12?
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10 frames, My trailer will hold 10 hive bodies. This is the minimum amount i would like to have in a new yard.
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Bluebee;
It looks, in your picture, like some kind of specialty entrance/bottom/top board between your jumbo brood chamber and the 5 frame supers. Is that an integral part of your brood chamber, or a special adapter to transition to the wood supers? I'm a bit slow witted, so I may be missing something obvious, but just looking at the photo, I can't figure out how the thing goes together. Thanks for the interesting pic.
jim
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Yes Jim, it is a dedicated little box for a middle entrance. I need an entrance above the ground to keep the skunks from destroying my hives. So the easy options are a middle entrance or a top entrance. Personally I don’t like top entrances in the summer because as soon as I remove their entrance, there is a huge swarm of confused bees flying all around me. That un-nerves me a little, so I like a fixed entrance that doesn’t have to move....like the bees expect in their natural habitat (ie trees).
The little mid entrance box is also used for drone culling for varorra using little 2.25” foundationless bars. I believe this also allows the queen to find as many drone cells as she wants without wondering into the supers. The extra space is also useful when compacting the hives down to a single box for winter.
The downside of this little box is it’s another piece of equipment. I’m not totally sold on using it forever, but so far it has served it’s purpose.
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I have made several boxes out of recycled wood and just butted everything together with titebond 3 and had no problems. You are still making a box which helps reinforce the joints. All my migratory tops, bottoms etc. are butted together also with no problems over the past few years. A good coat of primer and paint seals the deal. A side note, I stagger the joints so that they don't line up when I'm making boxes/nucs.
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For joining boards finger joints or rabbit joints work good.
I use the gorilla wood glue with excellent results and using wood clamps.