Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum

BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => HONEYBEE REMOVAL => Topic started by: skatesailor on July 15, 2011, 08:01:48 pm

Title: Beevac Problem
Post by: skatesailor on July 15, 2011, 08:01:48 pm
This old dog is trying to learn a new trick. The beevac is a great tool in doing cutouts. My problem is when I get it home. As I try to transfer the bees to the new hive they have exploded out of the box and I'm having difficulty getting them settled. I know I read somewheres about having a hive already mounted on the Vacbox and that seems reasonable. However my last three cutouts were three stories up a scaffold and that was out of the question. Any tricks to make transferring easy would be appreciated.
Thanks
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: iddee on July 15, 2011, 10:08:13 pm
Spray them with sugar water before opening.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: joebrown on July 16, 2011, 12:12:38 am
Agreed! That also works good for shaking and brushing bees off frames as well!!
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: Boom Buzz on July 16, 2011, 12:16:44 am
My bee vac box is a medium super box which I modified by adding a plexiglass top and a slide-able bottom.   After vacuuming up the bees I place the medium on top of the hive (either at the cutout site or home at the apiary depending on how long I leave the hive at the cut out site).  Then I slide open the the bottom.  I place the inner cover and outer cover on top of the plexiglass to block out the light and prevent heat build up.  Usually by morning the bees have all moved down into the hive, especially if there is brood comb or the queen is down there...

If your design is different then maybe try blowing a little smoke in before opening up?  or spray'em with sugar water like Iddee says...
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: David McLeod on July 16, 2011, 01:00:52 am
Which vac system are you using? I use the bushkill and for me transferring is as simple as leaving them boxed up and strapped, I do add the cut out comb box on top of the removable screen and remove the top section (vac unit) and add a moving screen for transport. Strap all that down pull the removable screen and take to the house add a top and let them sit overnight, maybe even to the next evening, unstrap and slide the whole shebang onto it's own bottom board. Leave for three days minimum before I go in and look for eggs if I wasn't able to cage the queen and do any adjustments (usually pull the extra box and condense down to fit the space to the bees). Other than moving to bottom board I never have loose bees with the bushkill.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: gardeningfireman on July 16, 2011, 10:39:59 am
I also use a bushkill beevac. I use a medium super with it. At the cutout site, I put the brood comb and whatever bees I can into a regular hive. After I am all done, I just put the medium super from the beevac onto the hive that has the comb. I strap it all together and come back after dark to get it and transport it home.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: skatesailor on July 16, 2011, 11:18:11 pm
Thanks all for the info. I did some reading on the Bushkill Vac and see where I can make some modifications. I also see where others experienced the same problems when making the transfer. All and all I like the idea of the beevac. It sure has made doing cutouts easier.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: D Semple on July 19, 2011, 10:18:32 am
I do a lot of high removals also.

I also use robbo bushkill bee vac with the screened shim system. It's a little bit of a hassle, but it doesn't weigh much so I just carry it up the scaffolding or ladder and set it up where ever I need it.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/DSemple/Bees%202011/Marilyn%20and%20Jim%20H/779a511a.jpg)
I love how easy it is to recombine the bees when finished. You just remove the top cover of the bushkill bee-vac leaving the shim with the screen in place attached to your vacuum boxes. Set your boxes of brood on top, put their cover on, and pull the shim.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj72/DSemple/Bees%202011/Larry%20and%20Johnnie%20B/IMG_5538.jpg)
If I don't have too many boxes I try to recombine the bees at the jobsite, take them home and open the bee-vac entrance. I then wait 3 days and pull the empty bee-vac boxes off, and switch them to their regular bottom board and cover.

Ingenious system Rob came up with, love it.

Don
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: skatesailor on July 21, 2011, 03:32:22 pm
The good news of my Beevac problem is that yes I had a mess in doing the transfer but I had placed the new hive on a pallet with a weak nuc. When I recently came back to check the new hive I noticed a lot of activity in the nuc. Apparently some of the confused bees populated the nuc. It was going strong enough to upgrade to a 10 frame. Some days the bee gods are with you.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: Judy in in on August 01, 2011, 01:02:43 pm
Yes, you are a lucky guy!

I have the Robo vac also. I use a deep with frames of foundation, and put the brood super on top and combine.

Three days after I've set the hive in it's permanent position, I pull the bottom and shim, rotate the top and bottom boxes, and call it good.
Title: Re: Beevac Problem
Post by: schawee on August 03, 2011, 12:19:19 am
same here ,got the robo vac too and love it .for high places i use a 35 ft.pool hose with no problem.      .......schawee