Author Topic: Box Joint Jig (Read 3748 times)

Jon McFadden · « **on:** July 10, 2005, 12:22:49 pm »

Here is the Box Joint Jig I use. It's much more precise than the miter gauge type.
http://nordykebeefarm.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18&PN=1&TPN=1

BigRog · « **Reply #1 on:** July 10, 2005, 01:29:42 pm »

Just from those pics I can't see how it works

Jon McFadden · « **Reply #2 on:** July 10, 2005, 02:24:03 pm »

The picture shows a standard blade in the arbor. That was a mistake when I took the picture. Normally there is a dado blade set for 3/4" on the arbor. I also added a drawing. Instructions will follow.
Does that help?

Jerrymac · « **Reply #3 on:** July 10, 2005, 10:06:22 pm »

That looks about like this;

http://beemaster.com/beebbs/viewtopic.php?t=1525

Jon McFadden · « **Reply #4 on:** July 13, 2005, 06:47:20 pm »

Jerry,
Your referenced link shows the old standard miter gauge box joint fixture.
First, everytime you replace it on the miter gauge, you need to recalibrate it. The one I made doesn't require anything except dropping it into the guides, raising the dado head to the correct height and making your joints.
The other thing that the standard miter gauge fixture won't do is a 3/8" dado for the first notch on the sides so you can have a full length rabbet. Much stronger. You'll notice on the plans that the indexing pins are 3/8" high. If the pin on the miter gauge jig were modified to 3/8" instead of 3/4", then you could do this on it, too.
I've used the type of jig you referenced for years. Trust me, if you ever use the sled type, you'll never go back to the miter gauge style.
Jon