Author Topic: New to beekeeping (Read 4894 times)

orin · « **on:** September 06, 2015, 04:19:47 am »

ok so my plan is next spring i would like to start 2 hives in my back yard. I would really like to get as much knowledge as i can between now and then so I guess my question to you guys is where should i start? What is there for books and and maybe online resources that i can use?

rwlaw · « **Reply #1 on:** September 06, 2015, 10:37:41 am »

Firstly, welcome to the forum, you've got a lot of resources here. You might want to add your location tho, as sometimes you'll ask a question that might be location specific to your area (sometimes a lot of it is and you have to keep that in mind when get the answers), like where to buy your wooden ware and bees.
I would highly recommend Michael Bush's website for starters http://bushfarms.com/bees.htm, (when I started out I drank from his well a lot LOL) the bonus is, he's a regular poster here. As you gain the knowledge and terminology, there's plenty of places to go to learn. And remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2015, 02:58:01 pm »

My web site is a very popular place where you'll see a lot of alternatives you may appreciate. Many a person has said one of two things: "I wish I had found your website sooner" and "I'm so GLAD I found your website before I started."

www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm

Beginner info:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesbasics.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesnewbees.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesoptions.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beespackages.htm

Glossaries and dictionaries:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesterms.htm
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesglossary.htm

There are separate pages for most issues unless they are fairly simple and then they are usually on the FAQ page:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfaqs.htm

texanbelchers · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2015, 04:35:28 pm »

Welcome. The Bush site is great as are searches online. There is soooo much info your head will spin. There are few truely new ideas; most things have been tried and have a 100 year old name. The great thing is that people here can tell you when and where things work from experience.

Location matters very much in beekeeping; some times regionally and sometimes across town. Find a local mentor and club. Also, update your profile here with your location.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2015, 08:46:24 pm »

If you like Michael's website, buy his book- The Practical Beekeeper. It is pretty much the same info but put in order in 3 sub sections, Beginner, intermediate and advanced. I recommend it.
Jim

Joe D · « **Reply #5 on:** September 06, 2015, 10:22:00 pm »

Welcome to the forum. You can pick up loads of info here, on Michael Bush's web site, other web searches , and on you tube. It is good to find a local bee club and a mentor. When you run into something you don't know, just post the question on here someone will usually give you an answer.
Beekeeping is very addictive, some days you can just watch them for hours.

Joe D

orin · « **Reply #6 on:** September 07, 2015, 03:19:20 pm »

Awesome info guys thanks so much!

Rurification · « **Reply #7 on:** September 08, 2015, 02:38:34 pm »

Welcome to the forum! I second what Joe said. Right now I can't do the local bee club thing, but I have always gotten great information, help and various perspectives from the beeks here.

mikecva · « **Reply #8 on:** September 08, 2015, 04:59:38 pm »

Welcome to the group. Most bee clubs place their orders for spring by November or December(if they are steady customers). Many will do in-club orders that are from hives local to you (almost always the best idea.) Many clubs will also help you by doing a swarm catch (this is only good if there is a local swarm and you get to it, not a guaranteed way to start beekeeping.) If you are ordering outside of a club you should still order by December if you want bees in April. -Mike

rookie2531 · « **Reply #9 on:** September 08, 2015, 08:21:37 pm »

Welcome, the very first thing I would do is, make sure you can/should keep bees in your location. If you live in a well populated urban setting, might not be a good idea. If you are more rural then you are off to a good start.

Just saying, because I have read a few post about neighbors being upset.
If you have a couple close neighbors, think about putting your hives out of there way and sight.

Good luck

mtnb · « **Reply #10 on:** September 08, 2015, 08:43:42 pm »

Hi there. Welcome to our hive. lol MB's books are great! All of it is on his website. I had bought Beekeeping for Dummies and that was a good starter. I got a lot more info out of The Backyard Beekeeper by Kim Flottum. I hear The Idiots Guide is also good but haven't read it. I say check your local library. That's what I did also. I got all the books they had locally and read them. Through our state's inter-library system, I was able to order MB's book and The Hive and the Honeybee into my library. Check into that. Maybe you have something like that. It's great to be able to read first and decide if it's actually worth buying. There are so many books out there that just leave you with more questions than answers.

biggraham610 · « **Reply #11 on:** September 08, 2015, 09:36:17 pm »

Welcome. I would also highly recommend MB website. It is an Icon on my computer that gets used very very often. Good Luck. Lots of answers here, you just have to ask and the experienced will help you through most anything. G

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #12 on:** September 09, 2015, 02:48:54 am »

Quote from: rookie2531 on September 08, 2015, 08:21:37 pm

Welcome, the very first thing I would do is, make sure you can/should keep bees in your location. If you live in a well populated urban setting, might not be a good idea. If you are more rural then you are off to a good start.

Just saying, because I have read a few post about neighbors being upset.
If you have a couple close neighbors, think about putting your hives out of there way and sight.

Good luck

Not sure what Kentucky's and Maine's laws are but here in FL, with a 1/4 acre or less, you can have 3 hives in the winter and 6 hives during the summer.
I have one of those crazy neighbors that went biserk when I told him I was planning on getting bees. That was 6 years ago and I usually have as many as 12 hives in my back yard. With a 1/2+ I can have 10/20 hives.
Jim

KeyLargoBees · « **Reply #13 on:** September 09, 2015, 06:52:31 am »

Jim where do you get the 3/6 rule? I thought it was hard and fast at 3 in a "suburban" setting for Florida?

Eric Bosworth · « **Reply #14 on:** September 09, 2015, 09:23:10 am »

That 3/6 rule makes no sense to me. It seems like you would be able to have more hives in the winter because they are not flying as much in the winter... but then... I don't consider the latitude of Florida to even have a winter. So in that case what constitutes winter at all? How often do you even see the temperatures below freezing for more than a few days? To me that is a mild fall/spring not winter you really only have 3 seasons.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #15 on:** September 09, 2015, 12:28:06 pm »

Quote from: KeyLargoBees on September 09, 2015, 06:52:31 am

Jim where do you get the 3/6 rule? I thought it was hard and fast at 3 in a "suburban" setting for Florida?

Nope. During the swarm season, you are allowed to double your hives to make splits and reduce the chance of swarming. I worked with the state on the rules. This was one of the out comes.
Jim

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #16 on:** September 09, 2015, 12:30:45 pm »

Quote from: Eric Bosworth on September 09, 2015, 09:23:10 am

That 3/6 rule makes no sense to me. It seems like you would be able to have more hives in the winter because they are not flying as much in the winter... but then... I don't consider the latitude of Florida to even have a winter. So in that case what constitutes winter at all? How often do you even see the temperatures below freezing for more than a few days? To me that is a mild fall/spring not winter you really only have 3 seasons.

The reason is to prevent swarming. Come winter you can put the hives back together for a better chance of survival.
Jim

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #17 on:** September 09, 2015, 12:49:51 pm »

I looked it up and here it is.

BEST MANAGEMENT REQUIREMENTS FOR
MAINTAINING EUROPEAN HONEY BEE COLONIES ON NON-AGRICULTURAL LANDS
The colony density limits in areas not classified as agricultural pursuant to Section 193.461, Florida Statutes, below, minimize potential conflict between people and honey bees and beekeepers following the BMRs outlined in this document. The honey bee colony requirements /densities may not be exceeded except under a special permit issued by the Director of the Division of Plant Industry in accordance with the requirements of Rule 5B-54.0105(3), F.A.C.
1. The placement of honey bee colonies on non-agricultural private lands must agree to and adhere to the following stipulations:
A. When a colony is situated within 15 feet of a property line, the beekeeper must establish and maintain a flyway barrier at least 6 feet in height consisting of a solid wall, fence, dense vegetation or combination thereof that is parallel to the property line and extends beyond the colony in each direction.
B. All properties, or portions thereof, where the honey bee colonies are located must be fenced, or have an equivalent barrier to prevent access, and have a gated controlled entrance to help prevent unintended disturbance of the colonies.
C. No honey bee colonies may be placed on public lands including schools, parks, and other similar venues except by special permit letter issued by the Director of the Division of Plant Industry and written consent of the property owner.
2. Honey bee colony densities on non-agricultural private land are limited to the following property size to colony ratios:
A. One quarter acre or less tract size - 3 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to six colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
B. More than one-quarter acre, but less than one-half acre tract size - 6 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to 12 colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
ADAM H. PUTNAM
COMMISSIONER
FDACS-08492 09/13
Page 2 of 2
C. More than one-half acre, but less than one acre tract size - 10 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to 20 colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
D. One acre up to two and a half acres - 15 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to 30 colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
E. Two and a half to five acres - 25 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to 50 colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
F. Five up to 10 acres ? 50 colonies. Colony numbers may be increased up to 100 colonies as a swarm control measure for not more than a 60 day period of time.
G. Ten or more acres ? 100 colonies. The number of colonies shall be unlimited provided all colonies are at least 150 feet from property lines.
3. Beekeepers must provide a convenient source of water on the property that is available to the bees at all times so that the bees do not congregate at unintended water sources.
4. Beekeepers must visually inspect all honey bee colonies a minimum of once a month to assure reasonable colony health including adequate food and colony strength. If upon inspection honey bees appear to be overly aggressive the beekeeper shall contact their assigned apiary inspector for an assessment.

KeyLargoBees · « **Reply #18 on:** September 09, 2015, 09:56:59 pm »

I totally missed that part...thanks I was worried about splits and what I was going to do with them...I have some out yards identified but it certainly makes it easier to split em and let em settle in before I need to move em.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #19 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:47:53 am »

Key,
Do you have Africanized Honey Bees down there? I know they are in a lot of areas south of I-4 .out never heard if they are in the Keys.
Jim

KeyLargoBees · « **Reply #20 on:** September 10, 2015, 12:14:50 pm »

There have been no reported cases down here...some in WPB and central east coast but mostly media hype....hell if you back a car into a "nice hive" or drop a hive off a trailer and have it split open on the ground (both have happenned and been reported as AHB by the media with no retraction after it was revealed the cause of the attack) you are goign to see the entire colony get angry and exhibit africanized behavior....but I treat every swarm and or cut out as potential AHB....full suit, gloves, and the works....after they prove to be "nice" I start stripping off clothing. Its usually a race between me deciding the bees are "nice" and heat stroke LOL.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #21 on:** September 10, 2015, 12:53:02 pm »

During my last inspection, I asked the inspector if he really wanted to go into the hives due to the cloud cover and pending rain. He was in a full jacket suit. I put my veil on knowing they were not going to bee happy, something I seldom need to do. The mosquito's were really bad so i went to get some bug repellent. When I came back, he was doing the bee dance rubbing his hands like crazy. He left to get his gloves saying they were too hot. I went over, with just a T shirt and veil and straightened out the hives that were tossed back together. No stings. He came back we looked at a week hive and then he decided that the other hive had to bee tested for AHB. He opened it up again and rubbed his sample tube over the bees, pissing them off again and got his sample. Again I rearranged the hives with no stings. I told him they were not AHB but he insisted they needed to be tested.

Jim

Dallasbeek · « **Reply #22 on:** September 10, 2015, 01:01:38 pm »

Jim, would they make you destroy AHBs in Florida? They used to in Texas, but my understanding is that they don't any more.

biggraham610 · « **Reply #23 on:** September 10, 2015, 01:34:55 pm »

Good Luck Jim. Is it mandatory that the inspector come and check your hives? What is the threshold? Number of hives, location, or both? G

KeyLargoBees · « **Reply #24 on:** September 10, 2015, 02:04:52 pm »

I registered my hives when I got them in May and advised my inspector after receiving my FL registration # and its been crickets since then. Then again she is based out of Ft Myers and also covering the Keys....go figure. i think she only comes down when she feels the need for boat drinks and some Buffet ;-)

and Caitlin if you read this forum you know I am only messing around :-)

GSF · « **Reply #25 on:** September 10, 2015, 02:27:50 pm »

I think you have to specifically ask that they inspect your hives, mandatory if you plan on selling them.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #26 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:31:16 pm »

Quote from: Dallasbeek on September 10, 2015, 01:01:38 pm

Jim, would they make you destroy AHBs in Florida? They used to in Texas, but my understanding is that they don't any more.

They will make you requeen a hive. My bees are not AHB. If you try to work the bees at the wrong time they will let you know it.

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #27 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:36:09 pm »

Quote from: KeyLargoBees on September 10, 2015, 02:04:52 pm

I registered my hives when I got them in May and advised my inspector after receiving my FL registration # and its been crickets since then. Then again she is based out of Ft Myers and also covering the Keys....go figure. i think she only comes down when she feels the need for boat drinks and some Buffet ;-)

and Caitlin if you read this forum you know I am only messing around :-)

How did you register your hives. Up here the inspector fills out the registration form when he inspects. It took two years for them to do that for my hives and was talking to the inspectors every month at the meetings.
Jim

BeeMaster2 · « **Reply #28 on:** September 10, 2015, 05:40:49 pm »

Quote from: biggraham610 on September 10, 2015, 01:34:55 pm

Good Luck Jim. Is it mandatory that the inspector come and check your hives? What is the threshold? Number of hives, location, or both? G

If you have one hive, it has to be registered/inspected. They do not want to see the hives for the first time until they have been established for a while.
Jim

KeyLargoBees · « **Reply #29 on:** September 10, 2015, 07:56:32 pm »

I called and spoke with the regional Inspector prior to getting bees and she sent me all the forms. One was the apiary registration form that got me my FL registration number. She told me to call/e-mail when I got the response letter with my registration # and she would swing by and take a look at the hives the next time she was in the Keys...In the grand scheme of things its only been 3 months since I told her I had the # and the bees were established.