>Commercial 8 frame supers
Check
>Small cell 5 5/8 wax crimp wire foundation
It's an acceptable choice.
>6 1/4 wood frame grooved
Probably you need the wedge top and the split bottom for the wired wax to fit in the frame.
>2 Frame Entrance reducers
I've never bought an entrance reducer. They are too easy to make. Any old one by will do.
>2 8 frame telescoping tops
I prefer a simple migratory made into a top entrance, but this is ok.
>2 8 frame inner covers
If you get the telescopic, you will need these. If you get the migratory you won't.
>2 8 frame screened inner covers. very hot in my area?
I wouldn't.
>do I need this or just inner cover OK?
Just prop up the inner cover when the weather gets hot.
>2 8 frame IPM bottom boards
Acceptable.
>2 8 frame bottom boards I want to be able to service the IPM board from the back of the hive
This serves no purpose. If you want a solid bottom board, just get a solid bottom board. If you're not going to get the ventilation advantage from the Screened Bottom Board, it's not worth buying it. No need to buy two bottom boards. A SBB doesn't help enough with Varroa to matter at all, IMO.
>1 Bushy MT Hive tool
I love the Italian hive tool. I hate all the rest and have give all the rest away...
>1 Bee brush
It's nice. If you have geese or turkeys one of their feathers actually works better.
>1 Manipulation Cloth
I have one somewhere. I used it once. I haven't seen it in years and haven't looked for it either. I wouldn't bother.
>1 pro smoker
Good choice.
>2 8 frame top hive feeder with floats
The disadvantage of these is you can't feed them after dark (a common occurrence when the days get short and I need to feed after work). The screened in ones you can feed after dark.
If you use the solid bottom boards and convert them to a bottom feeder you can save buying the feeders, and you can still feed them after dark.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfeeding.htm#bottom