I have searched and found no answer on frame positioning.

[RHBee]

OK. I have searched for answers and come up empty. I try not to ask questions without looking first just to keep people from repeating themselves.
I am using 8 frame deeps for brood boxes. I centered up the frames as seems to be the preferred method. My problem is that the bees build the comb so thick on the outside of the end frames that it makes frame removal difficult. I have considered using the method I once saw in a European video where the frames were pushed against each other and solidly against one wall of the hive.  If this is the wrong answer could you guys help me with an answer about how to deal with the restricted frame removal. I just do not want to kill the queen during hive inspections.

[Kathyp]

if you leave space, they will build comb.  there is no solution to that.  perhaps smaller brood boxes with tight frames?  many people use all mediums because of the weight and size of deeps.  you just need a few more boxes.

other than that, put all the frames in or deal with the mess.

[G3farms]

There is not much of a way to get around it. They just do not waste any space in the hive.

[David McLeod]

There arena couple options for solving that problem. If you carefully monitor them as they draw the comb you can spread the frames out slightly so all the extra space is divided between all the frames. The other option is follower boards, either one each side or shove them all to one side as you suggest and a single follower board.

[Michael Bush]

If the space and the thick combs bother you, either shave the frames down to 1 1/4" and put 9 in, or make some follower boards to fill the gap.

[danno]

OK. I have searched for answers and come up empty. I try not to ask questions without looking first just to keep people from repeating themselves.
I am using 8 frame deeps for brood boxes. I centered up the frames as seems to be the preferred method. My problem is that the bees build the comb so thick on the outside of the end frames that it makes frame removal difficult. I have considered using the method I once saw in a European video where the frames were pushed against each other and solidly against one wall of the hive.  If this is the wrong answer could you guys help me with an answer about how to deal with the restricted frame removal. I just do not want to kill the queen during hive inspections.

are you saying your using 8 frame deeps with 8 frames or trying to run 8 frames in a 10 frame

[RHBee]

Follower board. I want to thank you guys. I hadn't thought of that. How do I trim the existing frames down with the least amount of damage. I was just going to use a sharp knife and hope for the best. Any other ideas? Again thanks for the follower boards.
I use 8 frame deeps with 8 frames installed to clarify my equipment. I use 8 frame mediums with 8 frames for honey.

[David McLeod]

A sharp knife corrects alot of ills. I often get combs that have perfect centers but the upoer corners get drawn out fat with honey protruding into adjacent frames. Alittle trimming and swapping of frames so that the trimmed is against flat usually gets it corrected.

[oliver]

I have one 8 frame hive, built to the standard dim for that set up., found that it gives too much space, one pass with a block plane on each frame allowed nine to be placed problem solved, at least for me..dl

[David McLeod]

X2 on the narrow frames. I run 11 frames to deep and standard ten to medium. The mediums once extracted get dropped to nine to a box.

[JackM]

I have one 8 frame hive, built to the standard dim for that set up., found that it gives too much space, one pass with a block plane on each frame allowed nine to be placed problem solved, at least for me..dl

same here,  My problem is when I learned that was after I already had a box with 8 unplaned frames and can't fix it now.  The rest are planed and tight as a fiddle

[Michael Bush]

A plane works best.  You can buy a small one and it only takes a few swipes if you have it adjusted correctly.  It's difficult to control a knife and not have it go wild and cut too deep...

[David McLeod]

Since I assemble my own frames I can use the table saw to shave them. I clamp up a sacrificial fence to the regular fence and put it tight to the blade so that only half the blade thickness (1/16") is exposed. From there it's a simple matter of running both sides of the top and end bars past the blade.

[RHBee]

I wanted to post a follow up just to let you all know how it turned out. I constructed the follower boards from pine one by material and sized the top bar so that it holds all the other frames tight in the brood boxes. I made it so that the boards are the same size as a regular frame and layed flush ahainst the outer wall of the hive body. I didn't want to give the SHB any more space to hide. I think this will give me the desired results. I had to trim the comb from the two out side frames a bit to make it all fit. This was a little messy gave the girls something to do, cleaning up.
Thanks for the help.