Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Ross on March 18, 2005, 12:16:11 am
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It isn't my invention, but I built one and it works great. Need pictures, I'll post some of mine. Basicly, just notch the two long sides so a board can slide through with space left for the bar ends. It's glued and screwed at the corners. I waxed everything with Johnson's Paste Wax so glue won't stick to it.
www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig1.jpg
www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig2.jpg
www.myoldtools.com/feeder/framejig3.jpg
http://www.merrilland.net/honeyhouse3.htm
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That's a much simpler design that the plans on Beesource.
Thanks for sharing
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i am not a Carpenter but i am able to hold my own.... how is the notches cut? dado blade? also what size notches? is there plans with descriptions on line?
thank you
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i am not a Carpenter but i am able to hold my own.... how is the notches cut? dado blade? also what size notches? is there plans with descriptions on line?
thank you
Plans for Ross' jig can be found here -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/ (http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/downloads/)
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thank you.. one question..
i made it today and it seems that the 2 slats that you slid in to hold the hive frame sides are little loose(sloppily) . does that make a difference?
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This is pretty much what mine looks like. I also built one (after seeing a photo on mike bush's site) for doing 2 deep boxes at once.
Adamant,
I've thought that you could attach a plate with screws to the outside of the box that you could use to adjust the fit of the slats...or you could just get/make slightly thicker slats.....if it is a problem.
deknow
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deknow: ya thats what i was going to do if the replys came back saying they need to be snug..
thanks
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...mine are pretty tight, but I don't think a little slop will translate into unsquare frames...I never have a problem making frames straight even when nailing one at a time by hand.
Boxes on the other hand, are a pain to keep straight without some kind of jig...I'd rather assembles frames without a jig than boxes without a jig.
I agree about the plans on beesource...I scratch my head every time I look at them...way too complicated.
deknow
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i am not a Carpenter but i am able to hold my own.... how is the notches cut? dado blade? also what size notches? is there plans with descriptions on line?
thank you
I built one today, have no dado blade so just moved tablesaw fence 1/8" at a time to achieve the desired notch
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i still dont get where to place that staple from the end of the frame to the top of the frame..
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Vince,
You should never use the fence and miter slide at the same time...for this cut, it's much more important to use the miter (to keep the workpiece perpendicular and straight).
This kind of cut never feels "natural" on the table saw (with the board sticking straight up), but if you set things up properly (I'd use a substantial piece of wood as support), there is no need for the fence...just take multiple passes, moving the piece over a bit at a time.
You run the risk of binding things up (and perhaps tossing wood/fingers around the room)....be safe with your table saw...don't use the miter and the fence at the same time!
deknow
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thank you.. one question..
i made it today and it seems that the 2 slats that you slid in to hold the hive frame sides are little loose(sloppily) . does that make a difference?
Are they loose where they slide into the jig, or are you saying the frame ends are loose when you are assembling. If it is the first, that is not a problem. If it is the frame ends that are loose during assembly, a few strategically placed strips of masking tape can fix that.
Part of the problem is that each manufacture has slightly different specs, so there is a good chance you will fight the tight/loose battle if you buy frames from different sources.
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i still dont get where to place that staple from the end of the frame to the top of the frame..
3rd video ~8:00 -> http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/frames-and-frame-assembly/ (http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/frames-and-frame-assembly/)
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If the bars are a little wiggly a couple of strategically placed thin wedges will solve that problem.
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Vince,
You should never use the fence and miter slide at the same time...for this cut, it's much more important to use the miter (to keep the workpiece perpendicular and straight).
This kind of cut never feels "natural" on the table saw (with the board sticking straight up), but if you set things up properly (I'd use a substantial piece of wood as support), there is no need for the fence...just take multiple passes, moving the piece over a bit at a time.
You run the risk of binding things up (and perhaps tossing wood/fingers around the room)....be safe with your table saw...don't use the miter and the fence at the same time!
deknow
Thanks
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thank you.. one question..
i made it today and it seems that the 2 slats that you slid in to hold the hive frame sides are little loose(sloppily) . does that make a difference?
I attached some coarse sandpaper to the bar, and then use two elastic bands to pull the bar against the frame ends, works very well.
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I attached some coarse sandpaper to the bar, and then use two elastic bands to pull the bar against the frame ends, works very well.
Good Idea
Tommyt
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Here is how I got around the looseness of the end pieces.
See pictures if I can load them. I cut a 3/4 X 1/2 inch slot
at the top of the slot cut for the sliding board,and made
some tapered shims to slide in after the holding boards are inserted.
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/1530/framejig2.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/framejig2.jpg/)
(http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/1891/framejig3.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/framejig3.jpg/)
(http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7983/framejig4.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/framejig4.jpg/)
.
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See if the photo got there this time
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It will be a while before you can post pics. Send them to a mod and they will post them for you.
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E-mail links to the hosted images to photos@beemaster.com and a mod will append them for you.
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Another benefit of the extra slot and tapered wedge is that when the
jig is not in use the wedge keeps the sliding board snug, therefore no
missplaced parts they all stay together.
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Another benefit of the extra slot and tapered wedge is that when the
jig is not in use the wedge keeps the sliding board snug, therefore no
missplaced parts they all stay together.
Excellent point. I've been known to have to hunt for the cross boards before :roll: