Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: Kathyp on March 06, 2008, 11:32:09 am
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i was looking a jp's bee vac and thinking that i could make one without to much trouble. i have a 1 gallon shop vac that i'm not using. i'd have to make a bigger hose i think, but the motor is smaller and it doesn't suck as hard as the big one (stop it now!!). the box should be easy. any advice on construction and attachment would be welcome.
do you think i'd need to restrict air flow further, or would a vac that small be ok as is.
also, if any of you have pictures that you wouldn't mind re-posting on this thread, i'd be forever grateful. :-*
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I see you have no replies at the moment. I don't know, I built mine from the ground up.
Outer part
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Jerry-mac/Bvac002.jpg)
Inner part
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Jerry-mac/Bvac007.jpg)
Motor holder can be removed because I made one for 12 volt also
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Jerry-mac/Bvac005.jpg)
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thanks, that was kind of what i was picturing. how big is the motor on yours? my little vac is a 7 amp. it has pretty good suction...to much i think, but the bigger hose would probably solve that?
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Not real sure of the size. I got it out of an old canister type vacuum cleaner. The hole with the piece of wood above the motor is for adjusting the suction strength.
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Where is plans for making a bee vac. I have been looking all over the place. can one please list where plans are for them?
Angi
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My kingdom for a bee vac...wow I could have used one yesterday.
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I first got the idea from here
http://www.beesource.com/plans/beevac/index.htm
then created my own version.
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there was a bee culture issue that had an article about building one.
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Kathy, Annette, Sharon, bee vacs....yep, yep.
There are plans like was said. I have every intention of having my Husband make me one this year. Just to have on hand.
I think that the biggest thing that must be kept in mind though when using a bee vacuum with the bees, is to ensure that the vacuum does not suck too hard. I have no clue how that could be judged, but very, very important. The bees could be harmed if the suction is too great, also I have seen (I think it was JP) had some kind of cushioning at the bottom so the bees aren't banging hard onto the bottom of the box.
Get those vacuums made, it seems pretty easy, and Kathy, you are already almost there with your little shop vac, yeah!! go, girl, go. Beautiful day in the greatest life we live. Cindi
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I build mine out of water cooler jugs and I'm happy with the results -
(http://www.voiceofthehive.com/Pictures/BeeVacSmall.jpg)
A water jug, a strainer, some bolts and you are pretty much ready to go. Sell them from time to time and most people seem happy with the results but not the price. You can always build your own for free. :)
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Xc That is SO cool!
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well, that looks much easier than what i had in mind! i'm guessing a hose clamp for the intake end, how did you secure the vac end?
thanks for the picture.
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This is actually a picture from before the very first one's first use. These days the blue tape is replaced with a hose clamp and in most cases I don't need the hose that goes in the bottle end - I just hold the opening up to the comb. There's no clamp on the intake hose - the lid has a hole drilled in it that fits over the ribbing int he intake but like I said, you might not need a hose at all.
Here's a side view that's a little clearer -
This is not an img link because it is HUGE and I don't feel like cropping it. Dial up, beware.
Side view (http://www.voiceofthehive.com/Pictures/BeeVacSide.jpg)
One jug, a strainer, a 2 inch to 1 1/4 adapter and four small bungies. Mix in a bowl and bake at 200 degrees. One guy who built these adapted his "stair cleaning hose" that is a end that narrows to about 1 inch to go on the nose of the jug. He gets really strong suction through the tip and the big volume inside slows down the bees once they are in.
Oh, and I sell them but I assure you you want to build one more than buy one from me. :)
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is getting that strainer in like building a ship in a bottle? one strand at a time? just kidding.....
as much as i would love to support your innovation, i think i can do it and save a bit of money. + i already have most of the parts. as long as you don't mind me using your idea?
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To construct this you cut the end off the jug. Right near the bottom of a jug they get larger (and usually have a "texture" to the plastic). You make two cuts - one removes the "textured" end of the jug. Now you have two pieces - one is the bottom of the jug, the other is the body. On the body one end ends in a spout, the other in a large round opening where the bottom used to be. You cut about 1/2 an inch off the body of the jug, removing the part where the narrow body swells up to meet the larger jug bottom. Now the bottom will slip cleanly over the body of the jug. Drill holes for the bungies to catch in, holes for the adapter to go through, and holes to hold the mesh strainer in place. Bolt, bungie and go.
I wish you luck in building this, and let me know if you find problems. I also include two smaller holes on the bottom (around the vacuum port) that I tape up to increase or reduce suction. Depends entirely on the vacuum you use as to whether or not you need it.
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Has anyone tried the one in beeculture? it is made from a hive body. I would think if you could suck the bees into a hive body with frames already in place it would be easy to relocate your bees. Or is the large size too bulky to be portable?
Jim
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The next one that I make will be 3'-4' long and 12" square, made from 1/4" plywood over a 1"x4" frame. The vacuum will be attached to one end with screen 3" in front of the end board. A 15' smooth hose will be attached to the other end (high on the end board). Cut a hole 6" x 18" on opposite sides, staple screen over the two holes and cover with plywood that can be inserted or removed (for ventilation whenever not operating the vacuum). Toward the vacuum end drill a 3" hole, then install a piece of plywood to adjust for the correct amount of vacuum (just remove them from the surface). Attach handles for carrying or hanging.
Optional: To install the bees into your brood box- Cut a 6" square hole out of the bottom of the bee vac and fit with a removable piece of plywood. Cut a piece of plywood to fit on your brood box with a 4" square hole. Remove the 6" plywood from the bee vac and set over the brood box cover with the 4" hole.
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Tbeddy. First off, welcome to our forum, it is a great place to spend time. You are already in teaching mode, you have taught how to make, what sounds like, to be a great bee vacuum. I have read the instructions over and over and it makes a whole lotta sense. Nice job.
Welcome, stick around, ask questions, we will have answers, you can tell us stuff too. When you get the chance, tell us a little bit about yourself, what you are up to, and remember in your profile, state your location so we know what area of the world that you are keeping bees in, have a wonderful and great day, Cindi
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Has anyone tried the one in beeculture? it is made from a hive body. I would think if you could suck the bees into a hive body with frames already in place it would be easy to relocate your bees. Or is the large size too bulky to be portable?
Jim
Weight should be a consideration, unless you pick and choose your removals. A heavy beevac up on a ladder is not a good thing. I have two and use the lighter one much more often even though I can fit 3 times the amount of bees in the bulkier one.
...JP