Author Topic: Table Saws (Read 10981 times)

Eric Bosworth · « **on:** June 30, 2015, 08:25:18 am »

Unfortunately I can not afford a new table saw. The saw that I am using I am borrowing from my father. It doesn't cost anything to dream so I started looking at new saws. Somehow I still have all of my fingers. But that is not to say that I never had a close call. I had something kick back and managed to cut just the skin off the tip of my finger. If my apiary grows enough I am going to need a good saw. Does anybody have a SawStop? If so how do you like it. If I get to the point where I am going to spend the money to get a new saw I might as well spend a little more if it will save my fingers.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #1 on:** June 30, 2015, 03:36:10 pm »

I have not had a Saw Stop but have been looking at them. I bought my Ryobi new at Home Depot for $60... I guess I would go one of three ways. Buy the Saw Stop. Buy a cheap one used or buy a cheap one new... But I do think the Saw Stop would be worth the money if you have it... Still kickbacks are as likely to hurt you as the blade directly, so you still have to learn to use it safely...

flyboy · « **Reply #2 on:** June 30, 2015, 06:25:26 pm »

I make everything in the hive. The only thing I haven't made is the foundation and I am working on that. As soon as I get enough Wax I will have a go. ;)

I have an old Unisaw from the 1960s Works like a charm. No Sawstop. No idea if it is any good but I do know it will toast a blade if it has to stop it. I am a bit leery about trusting something like that as I would guess it might tend to make me reckless. I treat my saw like a live cobra.

For awhile I stopped using it and used a handsaw, but it is a bit impractical. I use hand tools whenever possible.

Instead, with my table saw I use;

safety goggles
Hearing protectors
push sticks
feather boards with jigs to hold it above as well as on the table
mitre gauge push with added piece of wood to make it large
board buddies https://www.woodstockint.com/Green-Board-Buddies-/W1105

If doing a lot of cedar I use a full coverage painting mask.

Eric Bosworth · « **Reply #3 on:** July 01, 2015, 02:05:04 pm »

Looking at the sawstop videos, I would have to agree that if it needs to stop the blade the blade would most certainly be toast. I try to treat the saw that I have been using like a live cobra but that doesn't mean accidents can't happen. I also agree with you that it might subconsciously create recklessness. It is like all of the seat belt statistics that don't include pedestrians in the number of lives saved. I would say that $69 to replace the break cartridge and another $30 for a cheap blade would be a pretty good incentive not to be reckless.

To MB's comment about kickbacks being as likely to hurt you as the blade directly... This is true, that is actually what happend when I took the skin off the tip of my finger. But what happend was that the kickback knocked my finger into the side of the blade. Luckily there was still wood on the other side of the blade. In most cases kickbacks are not as like to remove fingers. If they do it is probably because they knocked fingers into the blade.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #4 on:** July 01, 2015, 02:33:36 pm »

Unfortunately, though, kickbacks have been known to kill people... A board driven through your vitals can be a lot deadlier than losing a finger... Still I would consider the saw stop, especially if you will be sawing for hours and hours. It only takes a split second to make a mistake and the more repetitive the work the easier it is to make that mistake. I figure my fingers are worth quite a bit to me...

Eric Bosworth · « **Reply #5 on:** July 01, 2015, 09:06:49 pm »

The guy that came with the portable saw mill is a retired shop teacher. He was doing something in class that he thought was to dangerous for the kids once and the next thing he new lumber was flying across the room. Table saws are not known for being the safest pieces of equipment.

JConnolly · « **Reply #6 on:** July 13, 2015, 05:45:44 pm »

Bosch has a table saw out with finger protection that does not destroy the saw blade. It is offered in a portable contractor model and costs quite a bit less than the SawStop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBrtiEZDTg

kayaks · « **Reply #7 on:** July 13, 2015, 05:54:57 pm »

Our high school uses Sawstop saws. Seems to be a really good idea. I have a Delta Unisaw that I recommend and will not give it up for new technology. Still have all the fingers :)

Eric Bosworth · « **Reply #8 on:** July 13, 2015, 06:15:10 pm »

How is that cheaper? The saw stop job site saw is $1299 the Bosch is $1499. That is the closest apples to apples comparison.

Hi-Tech · « **Reply #9 on:** July 15, 2015, 05:56:22 pm »

I bought a skil brand from Lowes ($169) and it does have a cheap saw stop but I didn't install it. What most manufacturers wont tell you is that when the saw stop kicks in, not only will it destroy the blade but in many cases it destroys the motor. I also treat that blade like a snake and try to be careful of kickbacks.

flyboy · « **Reply #10 on:** July 15, 2015, 06:54:10 pm »

Quote from: Hi-Tech on July 15, 2015, 05:56:22 pm

I bought a skil brand from Lowes ($169) and it does have a cheap saw stop but I didn't install it. What most manufacturers wont tell you is that when the saw stop kicks in, not only will it destroy the blade but in many cases it destroys the motor. I also treat that blade like a snake and try to be careful of kickbacks.

I wasn't aware of the damage to the motor part. Makes sense though.

divemaster1963 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2015, 08:58:19 pm »

I got my large all steel tablesaw from a recycling center for 25:00$ then put a 3 hp motor on it. Total cost 125.00$. Your best friend is finger boards and push sticks. And safety glasses. Have all my body parts still.

John

flyboy · « **Reply #12 on:** July 16, 2015, 01:05:28 pm »

My first was a Craftsman circular saw (That I still have and use occasionally) that I mounted upside down in a table. Worked fine for a long time.

capt44 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 19, 2015, 11:07:08 pm »

I use a 15 amp Porter Cable table saw.

Jim134 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 19, 2015, 11:41:37 pm »

My nephew does have a stop saw ( last 5 years) he thinks it's one of the best investment he has ever made. You must remember he is a professional cabinet maker. In my opinion is a quality built machine. And yes it is real nice to work with. And he knows for a fact that it is saved him one trip to the hospital .How much is your pain and suffering worth Plus possibly loss of income / or used body parts.

BEE HAPPY Jim 134.

.

capt44 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 03, 2015, 08:54:46 pm »

I use a riving knife and anti-kick back an accessory.
Works great.

dott · « **Reply #16 on:** December 11, 2015, 09:44:39 pm »

do a search on craig list, found a craftsman 10in contractor table saw for 100.00.

gww · « **Reply #17 on:** December 12, 2015, 11:47:33 am »

I use the skill saw. $198. It is my second one as I burnt the motor out of the last one. I don't have good woodworking skills and have never owned anything else. I search and read all the reviews and offerings but wasn't smart enough to know what they added up to. So, I just bought another one like the other one and for what I do, it is ok. I hope I don't burn this one out and will be changing the blade more often then I did in the past.

I cut lots of green oak and it is hard on things. Replacing a motor cost more then the saw. Buying the extended warrenty would be $130, pretty hard to justify on a saw you can replace for $200.
Cheers
gww

flyboy · « **Reply #18 on:** December 12, 2015, 03:24:50 pm »

If the blade is just a steel one you can do a quick touch up on with a file to sharpen it regularly which will give a nice clean fast cut and the motor will last a lot longer. Heat kills motors.

If it's a carbide tipped or equivalent, even taking a few minutes now and then to take the buildup gum from the teeth will do a world of good.

I have a device that I install on mine periodically to true the blade. I bought it from Lee Valley but they don't list it anymore 2 bad. It is fantastic.

You put the blade in the arbour then you put this device in next to it then bolt it all in as usual. Then you run a runout gauge on the blade to measure the runout.

Then you simply turn the blade to the spot of the greatest runout and screw the set screws in to flatten the blade. You keep on going around the blade till you get the majority of the runout out.

Then you run the blade for maybe 10 seconds, then turn it off and remove the blade flattener and reinstall the nut as per normal and you have a blade that is awesomely flat, quiet, smooth, no tearout and the blade stays sharper longer because all the teeth are cutting.

The thing is dead simple to make it you are a machinist :) as it is just a disc (relieved on the blade contact side with a bunch of small setscrews.

Sundog · « **Reply #19 on:** December 18, 2015, 01:22:50 am »

My saw is as old as I am (65), and I still have all my fingers (for now).