inner cover w/ a magnatory cover

[zzzzzzzzpr]

do u use both at the same time?

[don2]

The only difference between the Migratory cover and telescoping cover is the ease of stacking and strapping for travel. I always use some type of weight on the Migratory  cover whether the inner cover is used or not.  :) d2

[melliferal]

I disagree.  I tend to think telescoping covers are immensely more weatherproof.

Migratory covers are rarely used with inner covers; I have a feeling it's because the migratory covers can't "open/close" the inner cover entrance notch the way a telescoping cover can.

[10framer]

propolis makes one about as weatherproof as the other in my opinion. 

[JWChesnut]

Warm, dry area beeks can be really, really simplified:
I use a migratory cover identical in design to a solid bottom board.  Starter hives are sometimes palleted- 4 per pallet layer, and 2 or 3 high. The stacked starter hives share top-board as the next layers bottom-board. Up to 12 colonies per pallet.
When a yard is stationary on a stand, I replace the bottom with a screened board.  
I always use an inner cover- sometimes one sided, sometimes two sided.  Otherwise, I crush too many bees. Accidentally crush one queen and after grieving, you will use the inner covers.
I bind all hive stacks with a length of nylon rope and a trucker's hitch to tighten.  You want to be able to lift the stack without shifting, so really tug on the binding.


Also note in this design that mediums are made from cheap fenceboards using cabinet biscuits for corner reinforcement.
Cash outlay for a medium super is less than $2/per box.  (not including frames)
The design principles are inexpensive capital outlay, interchangeable parts, and fast fabrication.
My cover/bottom boards are made with a 2x2 lip and a 23" length.  On pallets and stands I have sleeper 2 by boards  that are at 19 3/4" spacing.  The bottoms fit over the sleepers and lock the hives from sliding.

[10framer]

i like the interchangeable top/bottom idea.

[Moots]

i like the interchangeable top/bottom idea.

I agree, that's a pretty cool idea which I had not seen before...NICE!

[zzzzzzzzpr]

one sided or two sided? im still new to all this. i did find some cheap ways as inner covers : plywood, burlapsack, and a screen.

[beek1951]

I went for years not using inner covers with migratory covers, but saw the light.
Inner covers help regulate moisture and temperature in the hive and keep the
brood nest warm and dry. I use them on all my hives (70) now, but I never buy
them. I make them out of 3/8 plywood and cut edges from old scraps. I drill a
2 3/4 hole with a holesaw in the middle and use a feeder jar. I also drill 2 --3/4
holes so I don't have to shoo the bees out of the empty super covering the feeder.

[AllenF]

I don't think the bees care much one way or the other.  SHB like the hiding place and there is an air trap above the hive for insulation, but there is no right or wrong answer with this.    Both work. 

[BlueBee]

I disagree.  I tend to think telescoping covers are immensely more weatherproof.

Migratory covers are rarely used with inner covers; I have a feeling it's because the migratory covers can't "open/close" the inner cover entrance notch the way a telescoping cover can.

And the winner is Melliferal  :)

I've got plenty of dead bees than can vouch for what he says!  No drip line = wet, dead bees in November.  

Another thing I don't like about migratory covers is the bees glue them down real good (but not water proof after opened in the fall).

I do have some migratory covers, but I solve both of these problems (water and glue) with a plastic sheet inner cover.  

[Moots]

I went for years not using inner covers with migratory covers, but saw the light.
Inner covers help regulate moisture and temperature in the hive and keep the
brood nest warm and dry. I use them on all my hives (70) now, but I never buy
them. I make them out of 3/8 plywood and cut edges from old scraps. I drill a
2 3/4 hole with a holesaw in the middle and use a feeder jar. I also drill 2 --3/4
holes so I don't have to shoo the bees out of the empty super covering the feeder.

1951,
Maybe my morning coffee hasn't kicked in yet   :laugh:  But I'm not following what you're saying here.  I think you're saying that for the one large hole in the middle of your inner cover, you make it 2 3/4 to accept a feeding jar, if you want to feed.  I'm not getting where you drill the two 3/4" holes and how this "stops" bees from getting into the empty super covering the feeder.  But I'm interested.... :)  If you could dumb it down for me, I'd appreciate it.  Pictures always help.  :-D

[beek1951]

Sorry, I drill the two 3/4 holes on the same centerline as the feeder jar
hole but about 3 inches away from it. It just eliminates trying to get all
the bees out of the empty super and gives them a way back into the hive
without help.

[don2]

If you have a feeder on the feeder hole, how do the bees enter above the inner cover to begin with. Seems to me drilling two 3/4 inch holes showed them the way. Picture please.  :) :? d2

[beek1951]

When I change feed I inevitably find 4-5 bees buzzing around the empty super
covering the feeder jar. The more I try to shoo them out the more get in, so I
just started drilling the two 3/4 holes so they could get back into the brood box.

[beek1951]

This is an example on a nuc inner cover.

[hankdog1]

Migratory covers are fine until you start getting up north where the winters are bone chilling cold and wet.