Bees refusing to move down?

[David LaFerney]

The last time I did an inspection a little over a week ago I added an 8 frame foundationless medium hive body under the first two boxes that were starting to get full.  I didn't put any drawn frames in the new box so that maybe they would build some really nice straight comb - given a fresh start in a new box - I've had some ongoing minor issues with crooked comb. 

Anyway I was told that if I put the empty box on the bottom that I didn't need to put any drawn frames in it because the bees would hang down from the top and wouldn't need a ladder.

After 4 days I did a quick check and there was no new comb in the bottom box and only a few bees - no big deal I guess they will move in there when they get ready.

Today I opened the top box to pull a frame of eggs and one of stores for a trap out, and it was absolutely cram packed wall to wall with bees.  I mean really packed.

During the inspection when I added the empty box (with frames of course) I noticed that the lower of the two existing hive bodies had more stores and the top one had more brood - both had brood and stores but there was a very noticeable difference in the ratios between the two.

I didn't even look in the bottom box today, but because of the population density in the top of the hive I suspect that it is still more or less empty.  If that is the case should I move it to the top?  I replaced the frames that I stole today with 2 empties so I figure that should hold them for a few days, and I've messed with them enough lately that I want to leave them alone for a while.  On the other hand I don't want them to get swarmy either. 

Did I misunderstand something about adding "supers" to the bottom?

I should probably mention that I have been feeding with an inverted jar from the top almost continuously and this is a package started May 10.

[Brian D. Bray]

The last time I did an inspection a little over a week ago I added an 8 frame foundationless medium hive body under the first two boxes that were starting to get full.  I didn't put any drawn frames in the new box so that maybe they would build some really nice straight comb - given a fresh start in a new box - I've had some ongoing minor issues with crooked comb. 

Anyway I was told that if I put the empty box on the bottom that I didn't need to put any drawn frames in it because the bees would hang down from the top and wouldn't need a ladder.

After 4 days I did a quick check and there was no new comb in the bottom box and only a few bees - no big deal I guess they will move in there when they get ready.

Today I opened the top box to pull a frame of eggs and one of stores for a trap out, and it was absolutely cram packed wall to wall with bees.  I mean really packed.

During the inspection when I added the empty box (with frames of course) I noticed that the lower of the two existing hive bodies had more stores and the top one had more brood - both had brood and stores but there was a very noticeable difference in the ratios between the two.

I didn't even look in the bottom box today, but because of the population density in the top of the hive I suspect that it is still more or less empty.  If that is the case should I move it to the top?  I replaced the frames that I stole today with 2 empties so I figure that should hold them for a few days, and I've messed with them enough lately that I want to leave them alone for a while.  On the other hand I don't want them to get swarmy either. 

Did I misunderstand something about adding "supers" to the bottom?

I should probably mention that I have been feeding with an inverted jar from the top almost continuously and this is a package started May 10.

If you'be been feeding for 2 months you're over feeding them, especially if they occupy more than 2 boxes.

As to supering:  Bottom supering is not actually placing the super at the bery bottom of the hive, but at the bottom of the supers aka above the brood chamber.
A variation of that is pulling the top super, inserting the new super and replaceing the top, filled, super.
Most beekeepers now=a=days jut put the new super on top.  If using even medium supers all that lifting and manipulating can get tiresome.

[David LaFerney]

If you'be been feeding for 2 months you're over feeding them, especially if they occupy more than 2 boxes.

As to supering:  Bottom supering is not actually placing the super at the bery bottom of the hive, but at the bottom of the supers aka above the brood chamber.
a variation of that is pulling the top super, inserting the new super and replaceing the top, filled, super.
Most beekeepers now=a=days jut put the new super on top.  If using even medium supers all that lifting and manipulating can get tiresome.

I did misunderstand.  So I should move the empty box to the top, and stop feeding.

[Kathyp]

you can put a new brood box under.  i do it most of the time.  it usually works better for me than putting one on top.  if you think about it, it's the way hives are natural built.  comb is built in a downward direction.  honey is stored across the top and down the sides, usually in the upper half of the hive.

i have had hives that don't want to build down, but more that don't want to build up.  in either case, either move brood into the new box, or if that fails, swap the boxes.  moving brood into a new box has become standard for me.  9 out of 10 times it works.

if you are running 8 frame mediums you'll need 3 or 4 boxes for brood.  you should have good stores in by now.  i agree with brian about feeding if there is any kind of flow going on in your area.  if not, yes, you may need to feed to support the brood and build stores.

[iddee]

Where ever you put it, they will draw it when it is needed, and not before. I have found that they seem to draw a bit faster when a hole in created in their nest. So I put it under one box and on top another, thus making them draw in order to have a solid, unbroken hive.