Author Topic: Beemax hives (Read 14773 times)

buzzbee · « **on:** February 11, 2012, 08:23:57 am »

With all the talk of insulated hives,i have not seen any reference to the beemax hives available here in the US. Is anyone using them? If so,are you happy with them?

Robo · « **Reply #1 on:** February 11, 2012, 01:06:37 pm »

Yes, I use them and am extremely happy with them. Despite the fear that they will be fragile, they are actually quite tough. Even if you do break them, a little glue and they are good as new. I was even able to salvage them after a bear incident, where the wooded hives where not.

I also find they winter much better here in the north. Use about 25-30% less stores than comparable wooden hives.

I don't particularly like the beemax bottom boards, prefer to use my own.

The only issue I have has with them is acrobat ants boring into them and making a nest. I submerged the empty super in water (not an easy task) for a few days which solved the problem.

buzzbee · « **Reply #2 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:00:10 pm »

Robo,
Will conventional supers fit the beemax hive bodies?

Robo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:20:14 pm »

Yes they can, the inside dimensions are the same. In fact, I still use wooden honey supers. I only use the beemax for deeps.

SEEYA · « **Reply #4 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:22:39 pm »

Do you have any issues with sunlight deteriorating the plastic? I know it messes up the sheet stuff from the lumber yard.

Robo · « **Reply #5 on:** February 11, 2012, 02:30:00 pm »

UV will cause it to "rot". Simply painting it prevents that. I do have a couple unpainted pieces that are going on 2 years old. They have yellowed, but still seem pretty solid.

BlueBee · « **Reply #6 on:** February 11, 2012, 04:19:09 pm »

Quote

The only issue I have has with them is acrobat ants boring into them and making a nest.

I haven’t used the bee max yet, but I’ve had this same problem with my homemade insulated hives. Wax moths can also drill some rather impressive holes in my low density foam hives when they pupate!

Michael Bush · « **Reply #7 on:** February 11, 2012, 11:18:10 pm »

I had too much condensation and I was converting to eight frames and they only come in 10...

Sparky · « **Reply #8 on:** February 12, 2012, 01:42:05 pm »

As Rob pointed out about the bottom boards and the hive top feeders need improvement. Pros: are the amount of syrup it holds. Cons : The acrylic material between the bees and the reservoir will not provide much in the way of ventilation. I have some with small drilled holes in the top and some replaced with wire cloth. The bottoms are flat and do not provide good bee space to frames. Glued strips on before painting has held up well.

Finski · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2012, 05:39:20 pm »

.
Half of my polyboxes are 20 years old. They have not deteriorated in sun. They will stand to rest of my life.

Some are rough but I will turn them that shadow wall will be next 20 years agaist sun. Then my age is 85 y.

BlueBee · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2012, 06:21:51 pm »

But Finski are you going to be able to lift deep Langstroth boxes at 85 years old?

Vance G · « **Reply #11 on:** February 12, 2012, 07:27:13 pm »

Quote from: Michael Bush on February 11, 2012, 11:18:10 pm

I had too much condensation and I was converting to eight frames and they only come in 10...

I see the Northern Europeans are using the epe boxes with what looks like wide open bottom boards with mouse guards. If the bottom entrance worked with the cluster to provide a circulation, would enough moisture leave thru the bottom board? It would seem to me that if the water ran down the sides, it would freeze at the entrances blocking them? I may have to do a test here next winter, but I fear I have too many warm days and their uniformly cold conditions might radically change the equation. They are insulated covers and bottom boards, is that why they work? Are the beemax bottomboards insulated? Covers?

edward · « **Reply #12 on:** February 12, 2012, 08:57:30 pm »

I have a few poly hive boxes that are 33 years old , so they seem to last !

In the winter the air is cold and DRY , we ventilate out through the hive bottom , yes the walls can get frosty , haven't had any hives freeze shut , but dead bees can reduce ventilation so I use a high bottom board , a bout 8 cm under the lowest frame . It is ok that the walls have condensation as long as the bees are dry.

I don't know if poly hives work with top ventilation !?

We use big boxes for brood and 3/4 langstroth for harvesting , they way about 17kg , don't forget to bend your knees ;)

If you have poly hives that have become yellow from UV light , wash and brush them clean so they become white and give they a coat of paint and they will last many more years.

mvh edward :-P

edward · « **Reply #13 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:03:35 pm »

Quote from: BlueBee on February 12, 2012, 06:21:51 pm

are you going to be able to lift deep Langstroth boxes at 85 years old?

I don't think its the honey that makes beekeepers live longer lives , its the workout beekeeper get i the bee yard harvesting all the heavy honey boxes , not a job for the feeble and frail :brian: :chop: :chop: :chop: :brian:

mvh edward :-P

Sparky · « **Reply #14 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:12:24 pm »

Quote from: edward on February 12, 2012, 09:03:35 pm

Quote from: BlueBee on February 12, 2012, 06:21:51 pm
are you going to be able to lift deep Langstroth boxes at 85 years old?

I don't think its the honey that makes beekeepers live longer lives , its the workout beekeeper get i the bee yard harvesting all the heavy honey boxes , not a job for the feeble and frail :brian: :chop: :chop: :chop: :brian:

mvh edward :-P

Are you sure it is not from the good mead that keeps us going ? :-D

edward · « **Reply #15 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:21:15 pm »

OK I´ll try anything :cheer: once .. ... .... or maybee twice :cheer: :cheer:

Wasn't it the vikings that invented mead :-D ?

mvh edward :-P

Vance G · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2012, 01:46:43 am »

Edward When you say the inside gets frosy, does that include ice on the underside of the lid over the bees? Does it ever drip down on the bees and damage them?

edward · « **Reply #17 on:** February 13, 2012, 03:34:11 am »

I haven't looked that much inside my hives in the winter , better to leave them alone , but I have never seen frost on top of the bees , inside the hive.

Also after snow storms when checking on hives finding them buried in snow and not having a shovel , thinking that surely they are going to suffocate.
3-4 days later when I come back with a snow shovel the snow has blown away from the hive leaving an air space around it + the girls are fine.

I don't exactly know how or why it works but i does , I just listen to the more experienced beekeeper and do the same as them , I think that you just need to choose a way too keep your bees and the bees will adapt to the dynamics of the hive they have.

The bees survive despite the beekeepers ideas ;)

mvh edward :-P

Finski · « **Reply #18 on:** February 13, 2012, 06:09:30 am »

Quote from: edward on February 13, 2012, 03:34:11 am

, but I have never seen frost on top of the bees , inside the hive.

Quote from: edward on February 12, 2012, 08:57:30 pm

I don't know if poly hives work with top ventilation !?

Edward uses mesh floor like all modern beekeepers. I use solid floor and 15 mm upper entrance.

I have seen frost = condensated moisture in hive corners. It is normal.
When it melts, it drills out via bottom. - Or it forms thick ice layer on bottom. It makes no harm to bees.
I have seem thick ice sticks hanging in top bars of the frames.

Finski · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2012, 06:13:09 am »

Quote from: edward on February 12, 2012, 08:57:30 pm

We use big boxes for brood and 3/4 langstroth for harvesting , they way about 17kg , don't forget to bend your knees ;)

It has same dimensions as American medium frame.