Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => EQUIPMENT USAGE, EXPERIMENTATION, HIVE PLANS, CONSTRUCTION TIPS AND TOOLS => Topic started by: hive101 on March 12, 2009, 02:12:34 pm
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I have a ton of questions, many of which I hope to get answered when I attend my beginner's beekeeping course later this month. But some of them I'd like to get a jump on, because it involves purchasing equipment (which I can do now). I appreciate all your help, fellow beekeepers -- thanks in advance!
1.) What are the benefits of a hive-top feeder vs an entry feeder? I've read a lot about both. My "mentor" has recommended a cypress entry feeder for our area. A few books I've read suggest hive-tops. What is the point/counterpoint?
2.) For $15, is a brad driver (hand tool, not powered) a good tool to have? Again, I read about these as being great for frame assembly and mounting foundations. Good? Bad? Any specific size brad?
3.) Can I paint my hive bodies, bottom boards, stands and covers with spray paint? I know not to paint the insides of the hive bodies, so that seems like a good idea to roll or brush. But the bottom board, hive stand and hive cover need to be completely painted. Is spray paint easier?
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1.) What are the benefits of a hive-top feeder vs an entry feeder?
http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/
2.) For $15, is a brad driver (hand tool, not powered) a good tool to have?
I prefer air stapler. I prefer staples over brads.
http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,16842.0.html
3.) Can I paint my hive bodies, bottom boards, stands and covers with spray paint?
I spray all my stuff, much quicker and easier, especially polystyrene. I thread a rope thru the supers and tie it between two trees like a hammock. I can then spray all sides and edges at once. A little overspray on the inside doesn't hurt anything.
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hello hive101
#1 i have both and use both at different times. i use entrance feeder for early feeding because the sun will warm the syrup up and the bees will use it. i use the top feeders when it warms up and have new splits that i want feed on all the time. the top feeders i have hold 2 gal so it last a few days.
#2 i use hammer and nails. if i got a brad nail-er i would get a air one :-D
#3 i wouldn't, i use latex paint in a air sprayer and get the job done quickly. some don't paint at all its all up too u. ;)
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http://robo.bushkillfarms.com/beekeeping/feeder-compare/
Robo, that's a great breakdown and comparison -- thanks! I've already ordered 2 cypress entrance feeders from Brushy Mtn so I think I will start with those and see how well they work. If I notice the bees aren't taking to it kindly, I'll switch to something else.
I prefer air stapler. I prefer staples over brads.
I ordered my hive bodies pre-assembled, so I was only thinking about frames and foundations for this tool (short-sighted on my part). I was concerned that an air stapler (or even an electric brad driver) would be too big for, say, reattaching a wedge to a frame. But the idea of having a power tool to build future hive bodies or do repairs with seems like a good idea. I'll have to investigate this further.
What size staples or brads are used to assemble frames? hive bodies? The guy @ Lowe's yesterday told me that the powered guns "only accept a certain size", but I think he meant "UP TO a certain size", correct?
I spray all my stuff, much quicker and easier, especially polystyrene. I thread a rope thru the supers and tie it between two trees like a hammock. I can then spray all sides and edges at once. a little overspray on the inside doesn't hurt anything.
That's genius! Do you use an air sprayer or canned spray paint? I would think the clean-up on an air sprayer (like a Wagner) would be a deal-killer for me.
That said, I'm beginning to think a mini-roller for the boxes and then some outdoor quality canned spray paint for the bases, bottom boards and covers might be a smart way to go?
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I use the inside feeders, where you take one or two frames out and put the feeder in it's/ their place.
They come in deep and medium. I always put it in the top box if I have more than one box.
They last longer than the board man feeder before refills and I have had robbing result from using the board man Feeders.
I use hammer and nails. Unless you are going to have #'s&#'s of colonies then that other stuff is xtra $'s and more to keep up, and keep up with. Unless you have lots of other uses for it.
I use regular paint brushes, Flat exterior Latex house paint. 3 coats on new wood. one follow up coat every 2 or 3 years as needed.
These are some of my do's. hope it helps. :)doak
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Hive 101
I used an electric brad/stapler! It worked well when putting the wedges back on.
The brad that I used was the same size nail that they recamend
When painting I used latex and a 3 inch roller, I did have problems getting under the tin cover, so in the next one I will paint the cover first, without the tin. I choose the roller to get a good thick coat of paint.
Good luck :bee:
cundald
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What size staples or brads are used to assemble frames? hive bodies? The guy @ Lowe's yesterday told me that the powered guns "only accept a certain size", but I think he meant "UP TO a certain size", correct?
I use 1 3/8" staples for hive bodies, bottom boards, frame tops, etc. and 1" staples for frame bottoms. They are 18ga.
Do you use an air sprayer or canned spray paint?
I use an air sprayer (my old automotive spray gun) with water based paint, so clean up is easy.
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I have a ton of questions, many of which I hope to get answered when I attend my beginner's beekeeping course later this month. But some of them I'd like to get a jump on, because it involves purchasing equipment (which I can do now). I appreciate all your help, fellow beekeepers -- thanks in advance!
1.) What are the benefits of a hive-top feeder vs an entry feeder? I've read a lot about both. My "mentor" has recommended a cypress entry feeder for our area. a few books I've read suggest hive-tops. What is the point/counterpoint?
2.) For $15, is a brad driver (hand tool, not powered) a good tool to have? Again, I read about these as being great for frame assembly and mounting foundations. Good? Bad? Any specific size brad?
3.) Can I paint my hive bodies, bottom boards, stands and covers with spray paint? I know not to paint the insides of the hive bodies, so that seems like a good idea to roll or brush. But the bottom board, hive stand and hive cover need to be completely painted. Is spray paint easier?
To answer #1. Entry feeders (Boardman feeders) suck, period. They will induce robbing if you have multiple hives. I have never seen an exception. I went to top hive feeders. Reduces the robbing as long as your covers are on nice and tight. I have seen robbing when large enough gaps are left open for bees to get into. If I have my top feeders on, I put a cinder block on the top cover. That typically does the trick to keep robbing bees at bay. Use an entrance reducer too, to help the bees defend the entrance. The cost is much higher for a top hive feeder (a good wooden one anyway) than a boardman feeder but when it comes down to keeping my bees from dealing with robbing, I think it is justifiable.
I can't answer #2. I've always used nails and a hammer. I thought about using my pneumatic brad driver to put equipment together but I haven't bought a lot lately that would make it worth my time getting it out. For small jobs I can get it done just as fast with a hammer.
To answer #3. I have used both roller and brush to paint. A brush seems to make for less runs than a roller, especially near the hand holds. Never spray painted but don't see any reason why it would be a bad idea.. The outer covers I have, have the metal outside of them. I don't paint it. I just paint the wooden parts that are exposed to the elements.
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Thanks again to everyone for all the suggestions. They are varied, and I appreciate the explanations as to why/why not certain things work or don't work for you.
Last night I went to my local beekeepers meeting (first time) and ended up winning a 10-frame kit from Dadant! (Bottom board, two deeps, 20 frames with plastic foundation, inner cover, and telescoping cover.) Long story short, they were assembled by a company doing some type of "team building exercise" and then donated to our association, so they need some minor fixes. They also need paint, so this will be a good experience for me to test out some suggestions. :)
My equipment was already on order from Brushy Mtn, so this will be a extra hive for me. I'll fix it up and keep it handy in case I find a swarm or need to split a hive sometime.
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Just an update...
I use 1 3/8" staples for hive bodies, bottom boards, frame tops, etc. and 1" staples for frame bottoms. They are 18ga.
I went ahead and bought this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JOEQ?ie=UTF8&tag=hive101-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00020JOEQ) Arrow electric brad/staple gun from Amazon. I can't justify the cost of a pneumatic + compressor right now, especially with only 3 hives (I won a 3rd hive at my local association meeting last week). But for $60, it isn't bad. I like that I can use several different sizes. It came in today, so I'll test it out this afternoon when I put some frames together!
I use an air sprayer (my old automotive spray gun) with water based paint, so clean up is easy.
Must be nice to have a reliable power sprayer. We had a Wagner once upon a time, but (I learned the hard way) if you don't clean them immediately after use, they're no longer viable. So I brush-painted the 2 deeps I won last week, along with the tele-cover framing and the bottom board. It was surprisingly quick and easy, so I'll probably take this approach to start. If I ever get to the point where I've got 10+ hives, tho, I might re-invest in a proper sprayer.
Thanks again for the tips!
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I went ahead and bought this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JOEQ?ie=UTF8&tag=hive101-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00020JOEQ) Arrow electric brad/staple gun from Amazon. I can't justify the cost of a pneumatic + compressor right now, especially with only 3 hives (I won a 3rd hive at my local association meeting last week). But for $60, it isn't bad. I like that I can use several different sizes. It came in today, so I'll test it out this afternoon when I put some frames together!
I can't speak for the electric stapler, but if it works like it is suppose to, you should be in fine shape. I totally understand, the air nailer is pretty cheap by itself, but if you don't have a compressor, it quickly becomes unaffordable :shock:
Must be nice to have a reliable power sprayer.
I wouldn't know ;) But for less than $20 it doesn't break the bank to replace when the needle gets all pitted up
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43760
Once again a cheap solution if you have a compressor, otherwise not.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll make out fine...
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Wow, that compressor is looking better and better. Now, if I can convince the wife she needs one for her hobbies (sewing and gardening)... reverse psychology at its best.
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Now, if I can convince the wife she needs one for her hobbies (sewing and gardening)... reverse psychology at its best.
that shouldn't be to hard. look back on all the posts about nailers, etc. and you'll find that the gals really love the power tools however they are powered! :-).
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I stapled together 50 frames in under 30 minutes without a jig. A compressor and staple gun are definitely a worthwhile investment!
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>1.) What are the benefits of a hive-top feeder vs an entry feeder?
Less robbing, more volume.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beesfeeding.htm
>2.) For $15, is a brad driver (hand tool, not powered) a good tool to have?
Yes. But a 1/4" crown stapler and a compressor is an even better one.
>3.) Can I paint my hive bodies, bottom boards, stands and covers with spray paint?
You can paint or not paint them as you like.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#stoppainting
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Michael, thank you for your suggestions. I read over a few of the tips and how-to's on your site, and I must say that they are teeming with common sense and practicality! I'll be reading more of your site once I have time. My equipment just showed up so I have a busy weekend ahead of me assembling stuff.
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Oh, a few more questions about feeding...
1.) I get my bees packages in a few weeks. Can I prepare 1:1 feeding syrup ahead of time?
2.) If not, when should I prepare it? The night before they arrive?
3.) If so, how long can I store prepared syrup? and what type of container should I use? (5-gallon air-tight bucket?)
Mind you, I only have 2 hives, and I am (for now) going with Boardman feeders. (Don't hate me!) I'm getting 2 packages of 3 lbs of bees each (not nucs).
Thanks!
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1-1 you can mix as needed right in the container.
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1-1 you can mix as needed right in the container.
In a one gallon container place 5 lbs of sugar 1 5lb bag) and fill with hot tap water.
Stir until disolved. Makes 1 gallon of 1:1 syrup every time. The actual ratio is 5lbs olf sugar and 5 pints* (lbs) water = 1:1.
*A pint is a pound the world around.
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>1.) I get my bees packages in a few weeks. Can I prepare 1:1 feeding syrup ahead of time?
The longer you wait the longer it will keep.
>2.) If not, when should I prepare it? The night before they arrive?
1:1, as everyone has said, will dissolve with just hot tap water. I prefer to boil the water, add the sugar and make 5:2 or so as it keeps better and takes me less trips to the hive. Boiling causes it to keep better as does the higher sugar concentration.
>3.) If so, how long can I store prepared syrup? and what type of container should I use? (5-gallon air-tight bucket?)
If it's in the fridge, for a long time. If it's in a 70 degree house, for a week or so. If it's outside in the sun it may ferment the first day or two.
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Howdy,
Just buy an air nailer and compresser and be done with it. Go to harborfreight.com and find a store in your area. Air nailers are dirt cheap $20 USD and a compresser runs around $50 USD. Chuck in some nails and taxes $100 USD. Crack your wallot and save your arm. :-D
Why dig a hole with you hands when you can use a shovel.
Toolmaster