Beemaster's International Beekeeping Forum
BEEKEEPING LEARNING CENTER => GENERAL BEEKEEPING - MAIN POSTING FORUM. => Topic started by: blanc on January 14, 2013, 04:21:17 pm
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(http://s8.postimage.org/4fwhjqhzl/Bee_Trap_001.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/4fwhjqhzl/)
(http://s9.postimage.org/bfv2sgcfv/Bee_Trap_002.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/bfv2sgcfv/)
Got the idea from another trap is saw on the internet and decided to take some old plastic potting plants. Drilled a hole thru the top of the plywood and ran a rope thru both and knotted the bottom to hold the pot. Gonna place five this week in some spots around other large hives in old buildings and around the bee yards. Only down fall is the size. Looking for some 3 gal pots for some bid swarm grabs :-D
Blanc
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Easy enough! Are you going to put any bait in there? Make sure it's out of the direct sun to avoid potential overheating. Let us know how it goes, the proof will be in the pudding.
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Make sure you use a top that is wood. Otherwise you will find that condensation is a big problem. Made a few like that with 5 gallon buckets. They work but they are wet with condensation if the top is plastic.
The bees
The condensation is considerable!!!
Bailey
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May be easy to build, but not so easy to move into a hive :(
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Didn't want to bust his bubble but you and I both know what's in store when this trap hits its first swarm.
So he gets to learn trapping and cut outs all in one shot :evil:
Bailey
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I like 5 frame nucs hung in trees for traps.
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I like a 10 frame deep in a tree. Just a pain to get down.
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I can't see how this could be at all challenging to transfer into a hive? Anybody care to explain rather than just hint at how difficult it would be?
Would you not just cut the rope that attaches the top board to the pot, knock any bees attached to the board straight into the hive and similarly upend the pot and shake out any bees remaining in it? Where is the difficulty?
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You will have comb in the trap within a few days. If you don't find the swarm within a week your dealing with a cutout situation. Better to hang a nuc as a trap with frames in place. Then just transfer frames into hives.
I have done both and the trap with frames is best
Bailey
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Already experienced at cutouts and thought of the difficulty in the transfer but close enough to check regular. Saw the ones made of composite material that is similar to what I made. The top is of plywood also and can remove the rope pulled down easy enough and will let you all know if I succeed. Set a couple framed traps last year without success and to bulky.Thanks for the replies.
Blanc
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Traps need bait. What are you using for lure?
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Using that good ole lemon grass oil Bailey! ;)
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You will have comb in the trap within a few days.
If not within hours. Why let their hard work building comb go to waste. Let them get started immediately building comb they can keep. Framed swarm traps can be build for a couple bucks and are well worth it. http://forum.beemaster.com/index.php/topic,31604.msg257257.html#msg257257
Not to mention they look a little small volume wise.
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I learn my lesson on traps. No more traps that end up in a cut out. I was doing sana tube ones. Why lower your chances with maybe a lost queen, destroying brood set them back when you put them in a normal hive. Over the years % wise I have had poor luck with cut outs or swarms making it the next year. If not failing in that year
David
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That's why I hang nucs. Easy transfer to hives. Reload trap and send it right back up the tree!
Bailey
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Well all I have to say is thanks for all the encouragement guys! :mrgreen: :?
:-D Blanc
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Well all I have to say is thanks for all the encouragement guys! afro huh
grin Blanc
It is hard to see a ray of sunshine in these posts.
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Better to take your lumps now, rather than later!
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I prefer to use other peoples houses/sheds/barns etc. for my swarm traps :-D
Scott
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Not trying to be a downer there blanc. Just have done the trap and cutout thing before and try to always find faster and easier ways.
Sorry if I have sounded like I'm discouraging your ideas. Just know that I have been there and done that and don't want to return to that method.
Your idea will work.
Bailey.
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Bailey I am not at all bugged by those more experienced than myself and just having fun in the back and forth. Will try my traps none the less and see if I can make a go of it anyhow, Appreciate your advice and will awaiting your call for those nucs in spring.
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i catch bout as many swarms as most and dont use frames as when i did no bees and the ones without plenty; all i care about is getting my skinners on the suckers and then wil do what it takes.
but when using plastic like the boys told you they gona hane plenty condensation. and sho will get hot if sun hits them
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I prefer to use other peoples houses/sheds/barns etc. for my swarm traps :-D
Scott
ME TOO! Fantastic line Scott, can I steal it? X:X :cheer:
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Blanc, here ya go...should be plenty of encouragement. :-D
Proof that Flower Pot Swarm Traps Work! Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bALtVefmIXc#ws)
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I have used the flower pot type trap before with success. The difference in removing them from it and doing a regular cut out is the new comb. The new comb in the flower pot is so soft that it is very hard to rubber band it into the frames. I ended up just having to shake them out into the hive just like you would a package of bees. I used a frame of brood from another hive to help hold the swarm in the hive. That was my experience anyway.
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Thanks for the video Nature Coast Beek. I get to check mine every couple days so they won't have too much time to build hive and east to set up verses nuc traps.
Blanc
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Interesting study conducted in SE Louisiana regarding swarm activity over 5 year period. Actual scout bee activity as well as cavity size preferred, timing of swarm activity, swarm sizes and distances traveled are analyzed.
40 liters seems to be the "sweet spot" as far as cavity size preferred (which jives with other info./studies I've seen/read). But (take heart blanc), smaller sized cavities the size of "bird nesting boxes" were occupied.
Swarms will travel up to 6 miles with the mean being 2 miles.
The peak of swarm season in area looked to be early to mid April (over the period studied, of course). Good info. for LA beeks.
http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/13794/PDF (http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/13794/PDF)
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I did an un-scientific study of my own last year. In 12 locations I hung a 20L and 30L swarm trap together. In 8 locations I caught swarms in the 30L (2 locations twice) and only in 1 location did a swarm choose the 20L over the 30L.
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I did an un-scientific study of my own last year. In 12 locations I hung a 20L and 30L swarm trap together. In 8 locations I caught swarms in the 30L (2 locations twice) and only in 1 location did a swarm choose the 20L over the 30L.
Robo,
I would argue both that your study was scientific. and the results are statistically significant. :)
That's pretty impressive and convincing results...I guess the next step would be to give them 30 and 40 to choose from and see what happens. Although I'm not sure how much you can improve on those results. The other unknown is if the 30L trap would have not been an option, how many of those swarms would have passed, and how many would have taken the 20L option?
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I'd defer to the scientific study. It's worth the read and easy to comprehend.
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I'd defer to the scientific study. It's worth the read and easy to comprehend.
NCB,
Roger that... :)
I was merely pointing out that I thought Robo's "study" had merit and was interesting. I plan on reading the full study when time allows...being a new Beek and in Southeast Louisiana, I'm definitely interested.
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I would argue both that your study was scientific. and the results are statistically significant. :)
The reason I said un-scientific was because there are many uncontrolled variables in my setup. Such as entrance direction, entrance height and surround environment (some where on barns, others on trees). Also, I believe geographical location plays a big part in bee behavior. For instance, the deep south has much more absconding than here in the north. Is it because there are many more nesting places available, or perhaps because they have more time to prepare for a milder winter to survive so they can be more choosy. There is the opportunity to learn from any study, just be cognizant of the environmental differences.
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I would argue both that your study was scientific. and the results are statistically significant. :)
The reason I said un-scientific was because there are many uncontrolled variables in my setup. Such as entrance direction, entrance height and surround environment (some where on barns, others on trees). Also, I believe geographical location plays a big part in bee behavior. For instance, the deep south has much more absconding than here in the north. Is it because there are many more nesting places available, or perhaps because they have more time to prepare for a milder winter to survive so they can be more choosy. There is the opportunity to learn from any study, just be cognizant of the environmental differences.
Robo,
I hear what you saying, all good points, and not to beat a dead horse :deadhorse: ....BUT!
My point was you had a controlled sample size and controlled a number of variables, swarm trap size, general location, etc. Granted you didn't control all variables, I'm not sure any scientific study can in researching this particular subject. No doubt, some studies control more than others, therefore warrant more merit.
But for clarification, while certainly not perfect, I think your study meets an acceptable minimum to qualify as scientific. To me, a non-scientific study would be if I put a poll on this forum asking people based on their experience, what works better, 20L or 30L swarm traps. Now, that would be equivalent to these "meaningless" phone or text in polls that news agencies run all the time, which are truly "un-scientific' and TOTALLY without merit.
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Why not read the book honey bee democracy, it covers all of this and has shows the best way and variables to catch bee swarms.
mvh edward :-P