Author Topic: nuc hive design tips? (Read 6465 times)

Bee Happy · « **on:** March 04, 2010, 07:25:40 pm »

I'm gonna build a nuc hive tomorrow sometime (advice after the fact is welcomed too - for the next one) -
here's the specs though. I have to transport it with bees in a passenger vehicle; I want to be able to shut it tight so the bees can't get out (I'll secure the top and bottom with ratchet straps)
what I'm asking is for suggestions on how to make sure it's ventilated when I lock them in without leaving the nuc too vulnerable to the weather.
It's going to continue warming up here, but there is almost invariably always one last freeze around easter time (this one will probably be in the end of march.)
(I was planning to make their entrance a 1/2" hole near the top)

specialkayme · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2010, 08:25:27 pm »

Is this only a temporary transportation nuc, or do you plan on using it in your yard as a working hive as well?

hardwood · « **Reply #2 on:** March 04, 2010, 08:46:02 pm »

I build 4-frame nucs for queen rearing that would suit your needs I think. They hold four frames (could easily be built for any no. of frames), screened bottoms (window screen...bee tight), 3/4" hole that I plug with a rubber stopper from the hardware store, and a migratory style cover that I strap down with heavy rubber bands if need be.

Hope that helps,
Scott

Bee Happy · « **Reply #3 on:** March 04, 2010, 09:11:36 pm »

Quote from: specialkayme on March 04, 2010, 08:25:27 pm

Is this only a temporary transportation nuc, or do you plan on using it in your yard as a working hive as well?

I left that info out - sorry, it's temporary transportation, but will be left until the replacement queen has bred and is laying. (maybe a month to 6 weeks? - something a building colony can defend)

scott, thanks that sounds close, I was really asking if I could cut notches near the top (too small for bees) to allow air circulation - I guess I should vent the bottom somehow, even if that means drilling 1/8" holes all over.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #4 on:** March 04, 2010, 10:39:59 pm »

You'd be amazed how much the Bee Brief meets your criteria and how handy they are to handle...

hardwood · « **Reply #5 on:** March 04, 2010, 11:24:04 pm »

Keep us posted (literally). I'd like to hear what you settle on.

Scott

Bee Happy · « **Reply #6 on:** March 04, 2010, 11:56:37 pm »

I'll do that scott, I'll probably put it together tomorrow.

Mike, I saw the bee brief advertised - I should look at it again, but I may not order it this time around - if I hadn't already been fixed on building one myself, I probably would have planned further ahead and ordered one. As the situation is now though I failed to plan ahead enough and the bees are already hauling in pollen and building up.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2010, 12:54:54 am »

I looked at the price the first time and wrote them off. Then I bought a few because they did look handy to haul around and I wanted to see what I thought. The up side is that they have screened tops for hauling without overheating, they stack nice, but the nicest thing about them them is that you can easily, without bending over much, pick up four at a time, like picking up two suitcases. I can see where a trukload of them could really help when doing hundreds of nucs and hauling them around. I have about ten, I think. I like them for hauling a nuc from one yard to the next. Now if they only came in mediums...

Finski · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2010, 01:17:44 am »

I have splitted poly hive boxes to 2 or 3 parts. The missing wall I have made from styrofoam
insulating board. The best clue to do that is polyurethane glue. It glues plastic and makes a small foam.

I use those as mating nucs. Normal brood frame is the most handy in mating nucs.

If you over winter in nucs, 5-frame is minimum for that. Even if you get a smaller colony alive over winter the spring build up is painfully slow.

Dracono · « **Reply #9 on:** March 05, 2010, 04:14:35 am »

Hi you might want to try out ventrillo they have ppl there all the time and you get a fast reply. its easy to use free to down load, user friendly and ppl on there will help you set up the voice chat options it takes about 7 Min's..

Reason I was saying all of this is We was just talking about nucs yesterday

Bee Happy · « **Reply #10 on:** March 05, 2010, 05:11:56 am »

I just saw the price on the bee brief. :shock: It's probably worth it for durability and ease of use, but... I think the one I plan to knock up tomorrow may run me about $10 - I'll keep that one in mind though.

draco, I accidentally trampled my mic about a year ago (work boots vs. plastic - you can imagine how that turned out) I realized after I crushed it that I hardly ever used it anyway.

Bee Happy · « **Reply #11 on:** March 06, 2010, 12:43:16 am »

ok I have a box shape put together, but I need to put some details together, scott's suggestion to use openings that can be closed with corks was the ticket, I just have to work out the ventilation now. no pics yet but I'll get some of this stage and through the rest of the development.

fish_stix · « **Reply #12 on:** March 06, 2010, 11:14:51 am »

Just build an extra screened lid to be used when moving bees. Cheap window screen and scrap lumber/plywood works just fine. Give them plenty of ventilation when traveling. I read somewhere of a beek who bought a bunch of nucs down south, loaded them in a trailer, and when he got home up north, he had about half the bees he started out with!

steveouk · « **Reply #13 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:43:38 pm »

Michael< how do you feed the bee's when there in the bee brief. My understanding is that they only hold 4 frames. So i am assuming you use an entrance feeder of some kind ?

I've been thinking about getting some of these for bee removal and converting my bee vac to use with them.

Michael Bush · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2010, 11:02:02 pm »

I haven't tried to feed them. But I suppose a baggie feeder on the bottom would work. I've only used them moving bees from one place to another. Assuming splits when there is a flow and you give them a couple of frames of stores, they shouldn't need feeding.

Dracono · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2010, 12:30:38 am »

You dont have have to have a mic you can use the chat room and still talk with us on vent.

Bee Happy · « **Reply #16 on:** March 07, 2010, 02:14:45 pm »

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9967/nuc.jpg
I drilled two 7/8" holes which just fit a real cork for a winebottle. I angled them upwards at about 30* (thinking that it may be easier to defend 'high ground' but that may not matter to the bees.) in this pic you can see another 7/8" (corkable) hole in the top so I can put a feeder bucket on there.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5600/fitcheck.jpg
Just some old frames added to make sure I had the measurements right.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6254/nucbase.jpg
the sticks elevate the nuc a little to let air in through the bottom.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2325/airholes.jpg
I hope 3/16" isn't too big or tough to defend, they may constrict a little with paint.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5713/sidevents.jpg
I didn't know I was at an angle where you could see right through the slot - I glued in pieces of wood to prevent them from warping into an opening after this pic. you can see by this along the side that my handsaw is cutting at a bevel, I kept to the lines but I'm having a heck of a time getting that bevel worked out (cheap circular saw has been dropped while pitched and bent the guidearm - so the angle guide isnt exactly accurate anymore).

well, it isn't painted yet (my wife will handle the paint) she may decide to tole paint it as well (she likes doing that stuff she put random flowers and wisteria on one of our hives - usually paints the hive name and the queens name on the 10 framers like some kind of bee hangar.)

budhanes · « **Reply #17 on:** March 07, 2010, 07:50:40 pm »

I just use a plain old nuc with an entrance reducer. Than, when I transport in my Blazer, I wrap them with a sheet. I usually run the AC at max, and my trips are usually less than 40 minutes. I haven't had a problem yet., knock on wood.

Bee Happy · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2010, 03:43:16 pm »

Hey, finski, and bud; sorry I haven't replied, I was saving it for my wife to do her tole painting, so I could post a last picture and reply then. But I'm getting a bit of an artist's timeline for it (I can't complain, she does nice work and the price is unbeatable). Maybe tonight I can post a final picture?
I'm only taking it about 20 minutes away, but if I got the info everyone gave me right, they could probably travel a pretty good ways.

Beaver Dam · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2010, 10:45:59 pm »

My swarm transportation devise is a deep with frames that can be used to rubber band the comb in if needed. It is a SBB with the entrance closed completely. My top is a telescoping cover made so regular screen wire is stapled to it. When I get back to the yard I simply change the screened top with a regular one that has a hole in it for a feeder. I leave them closed up for a week. I then change the fully closed entrance to a restricted one.