winterization - remove the screened bottom board or not?

[brooklynbees]

I have two hives in NYC and am wondering if anyone has an opinion (or two) on whether the screened bottom board should be closed up or replaced with a solid one when winterizing. I know we need to maintain ventilation to reduce interior moisture during clustering, but does a screened bottom board create too must ventilation and increase the hive's need for stored food? I think it would, but am curious as to other's opinions and/or experiences.
Thanks.

[Dimmsdale]

I put the insert in mine.  duck tape the seams.

[Brother Dave]

I like the duct tape idea. when I first used a sbb I left the insert in the rain collected on it and things got moldy. so if you keep it seal it up in the back where the tray is inserted.
David

[JackM]

Well I am trying something this year as I did have moisture issues last year.  I am leaving the bottom open. 

First, the hives are elevated 8" off the ground to allow for air circulation in summer.  But this winter what I did was make a box out of 1" foam board that slides loosely over the outside of the hive, leaving the exit area open, but all the way from the ground to the telescoping top other than the bottom opening insulated.  I note this year the bees are flying at 40 degrees, whereas last year 50 was pretty much the magic number.

Again, this is an experiment, I went into winter with two strong, one moderate and one weak hive.  Spring will tell me how it worked. 

[OldMech]

I dont use them, despite some of the benefits I have read about..  We have a LOT of wind here, especially in the winter. I have great doubts about the usefulness of screens in the bottom when the -20 winds are blowing at 30 mph.   
   I have read about many people having success with them even here where I live..    Find someone from your area that DOES use them and see what they do. Contact the local clubs etc..   I think your temps will be similar to mine but I dont know about your winds..

[annette]

I have kept mine open since 2006, but have milder winters than you, although we do get into the 20's and 30's at night here and there for about 2 months.

[T Beek]

The first time I used SBB was in 2007.  Placed them below two packages.  I was convinced by another beek that leaving them open (w/out tray) for winter was the correct usage so that was what I did.  Both those colonies survived a harsh northern Wisconsin winter and thrived the following year….due to what I now believe was…plain dumb luck  :-\.

That said; I've always surrounded my hives with 2-3 feet of hay as protection against winter which also creates a 'dead air' space below, and was the case in 2007.  I've not repeated leaving them wide open over a winter sense then and have come to believe instead in the positives of 'creating dead air spaces below AND Above' colonies that over-wintered in Wisconsin.

You'll find many opinions on the so-called 'proper' use of SBB but should probably stick with a system that works already in your particular region…..as is the case with most beekeeping methods  8-).  Personally I never completely remove them anymore, except to examine the debris.  If it gets real hot out I may open them halfway, otherwise during summer I keep them open only an inch or two at most.  During winter they're closed up, duct taped and hayed :).

[edward]

Living in a northern climate with freezing Cold Winters I recommend leaving it open in the Winter.

In the spring after the cleansing flights I would Close it up.

In the Winter , wet bees are dead bees, ventilate out the moisture.

In the spring they need to keep the brood warm, closing things up makes it easier to keep the brood nest warm, when the Winter bees die of and the new bees haven't hatch yet.

When the hive is up and running you can open it up again to help them vent out moisture when they start to dry nectar to honey.

mvh Edward  :-P

[Brother Dave]

Well I am trying something this year as I did have moisture issues last year.  I am leaving the bottom open. 

First, the hives are elevated 8" off the ground to allow for air circulation in summer.  But this winter what I did was make a box out of 1" foam board that slides loosely over the outside of the hive, leaving the exit area open, but all the way from the ground to the telescoping top other than the bottom opening insulated.  I note this year the bees are flying at 40 degrees, whereas last year 50 was pretty much the magic number.

Again, this is an experiment, I went into winter with two strong, one moderate and one weak hive.  Spring will tell me how it worked.

I think trying new things is really fun. I learn more about bees that way. Good luck.

David


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[edward]

You can also pull out a pollen frame and have 9 centered frames in a 10 frame box to help ventilation.


mvh Edward  :-P

[T Beek]

Top entrances solved all of my condensation issues.  That and a vent/feed box over inner cover.  Local beekeeping rules   ;)

[dprater]

T Beek- Local beekeeping rules you say! I also keep a empty supper over my inner cover that has 3 holes cut that a quart jar fits in with #8 wire to keep the bees in when I change jars. I like the idea even in the summer to keep the metal cover away from the girls. Is this what you are talking about?

SBB open last year, closed this year

dan

[capt44]

I put an insert to block off the screened bottom board and reduce the entrance some.
I do keep the upper vent open to keep down moisture.
This next year I'm going to solid bottom boards.

[T Beek]

T Beek- Local beekeeping rules you say! I also keep a empty supper over my inner cover that has 3 holes cut that a quart jar fits in with #8 wire to keep the bees in when I change jars. I like the idea even in the summer to keep the metal cover away from the girls. Is this what you are talking about?

SBB open last year, closed this year

dan

I use one gallon pails to feed syrup, they fit nicely over the standard oblong inner cover holes.  Over the inner cover my vent/feed boxes have  four 1" holes screened (one per side) that are blocked w/ fitted 2 " insulation that has been lowered below the vent holes during winter, wide open during summer.  I just have to flip them over and switch the insulation depending on the season.  Throughout winter when seeing 'frost' at the 'top' entrances I know my bees are alive and well  8-).

[bbbthingmaker]

I put the insert in most of the way, leave about an inch open. I also have quilt boxes on top. No moisture problems yet.

[Highlander]

As recommended by a local beek here in the Catskills Mt, NY.  Bottom board with the screened board on top, some hay in the opening to reduce any wind but still allow air flow (we have very high winds all winter). A hive box with the entrance reduced and frames, a second box where the cluster lives with all the stores they gathered. The inner cover with a super filled with more hay. This creates an insulated space still allowing good airflow. The outer cover on with piece of wood holding it up on the front. The whole is situated to get the most out of the southern sun and I have a large wind block built to the west north-west.  We had a week of wind chills in the negatives at night. We then had a very pleasant couple of days in the upper 40 and 50s with the girls flying. So, for what its worth.

[woodchopper]

 Corrugated plastic insert only goes in when we're doing a mite count or after we've just installed a new package.  It's worked for us for the past seven winters.

[T Beek]

Corrugated plastic insert only goes in when we're doing a mite count or after we've just installed a new package.  It's worked for us for the past seven winters.

Do you just ;eave the bottoms wide open?  In Maine?  Wow!

[woodchopper]

Corrugated plastic insert only goes in when we're doing a mite count or after we've just installed a new package.  It's worked for us for the past seven winters.

Do you just ;eave the bottoms wide open?  In Maine?  Wow!

We have friends in Quebec that do the same thing. Usually if your bees die it's because of what you did or didn't do in the warmer months. Colonies really do need good ventilation which leaving the insert out seems to do.

[Steel Tiger]

 I was wondering the same thing, whether to keep the SBB or put a solid one in it's place. I found a youtube channel run by a beekeeper in Maine. He keeps the SBB open through the winter and the bees survive with no problems. Like this guy, I have northern raised bees. I decided to keep the inserts in and close the bottom entrances.
 It'll more than likely boil down to what breed of bees you have and their health going into winter on whether they'll survive.